Caring for my Mare & Foal

It is very important to put your mare on a good diet with all the essential nutrients she needs to stay healthy, I feed a high protein feed. Lots of hay and water are also necessary, after all she is eating/drinking for two! A few weeks prior to foaling I like to transition the mare to new pasture/pen as it has a large stall for her to foal in. Changing pastures a few weeks before pregnancy helps keep stress levels down and get the mare comfortable with her new area.

When my mare starts showing signs that she may be ready to foal soon, I wrap her tail so it is out of the way. I also change her bedding from sawdust to a thick heavy bedding of straw, as it is safer for the mare and foal during labor. After the foal is a few hours old I begin to start bonding with foal. Keeping down a number of people in the stall help keep your mare and foal calm, too many people will make her nervous.

To keep Mare and Foal comfortable and safe I keep all animals away from mare and foal and let them have a stall pasture all to themselves. Now that the foal is born and healthy it is time to come up with a name! I like to watch behavior and pay attention to physical characteristics to help me come up with a name.

- Rachael

Safe Practices for Young Riders

Photo by: Flickr User matlock-photo

Ask any horse person when their love for horses began and their response will most likely be “when I was a child.” There is some type of infinite fascination held by children for the beauty and majesty of horses.  Many kids are lucky to advance beyond riding their magnificent horse through their day dreams and have the personal opportunity to interact with or own a horse.

While there isn’t any one breed of horse better than another when choosing a horse for your child, it is best to find a “been there, done that” horse that has a laid back disposition and a quiet and forgiving demeanor. Gender may play more of a role than breed. Mares may be moody and stallions too rowdy, but geldings are generally more even-keeled and could be the better selection.

As parents, it is our responsibility to keep our kids safe when they handle and ride their horses. Implementing safe practices and making sure your child understands them and uses them are important not only for their safety, but also our peace of mine.

• Helmets save lives! Every child should wear a helmet every time they are around their horse, in or out of the saddle. Boots should always be worn when handling horses.
• Structured care and riding lessons are important, whether they are done in a formal setting from a professional instructor or provided by a family member on the family farm. Lessons will build confidence and ability, helping your child develop balance and a strong seat in the saddle. Hands on learning is important, but always under adult supervision. Younger children should never interact with horses without an adult being present. 
• Teach your child about horse dynamics: fight or flight reactions, how they communicate with other horses, pecking orders in the herd, etc. This will provide awareness for your child whenever they are around horses. Instruct them to always be on alert to what might spook their horse: dogs, loud traffic or farm machinery, the wind blowing things around, etc. 
• Safety on the ground. It is very important that children understand how to approach a horse, and how not to! Always approach horses from an angle off the shoulder or in front of the hip from behind. Never approach directly in front of their head or from straight behind. Always speak to the horse as you approach. Never approach quietly. 

Just as important is teaching your child where to stand when near a horse to prevent foot injuries from being stepped on or from being knocked down if a horse whirls around. The safest place to stand is just off the shoulder. Instruct them to always have a hand on the horse. This will let the horse know they are there and will also alert your child if the horse is planning to make a move or is tensing up.

• Never let a child crawl/walk under the horse’s belly or under his neck. This may spook the horse and the child may be knocked to the ground and trampled. 
• Children should never pick up the horse’s feet to clean them. This should always be done by an adult. 

Safety should always be first and foremost when our kids are around horses. Lead by example and pass on the knowledge you have to your children.

By: Darlene M. Cox

Establishing Trust Between Horse and Rider

Photo via Flickr

There is a breathtaking video floating around the internet of a young lady riding bareback and bridleless on her beautiful horse, wowing those in the arena with their wonderful display of athleticism and skills. What immediately struck my mind was the degree of trust she had to establish with her horse in order to train him to do all she asked with nothing more than cues given from her legs and seat.

Natural Horsemanship training is based on winning a horse’s trust, rather than forcing him to do your will. Training with trust makes your horse “want” to please you by doing what you ask.

But how do we get there? How can we build that kind of trust?

Just as trust with those whom we form relationships is important to humans, it is equally important in the relationships our horses have with us. By nature, horses are “fight or flight” minded.

They know two things: 1) there is safety in numbers, and 2) humans are predators.

It is our responsibility to show we need not be feared and that we can be entrusted as a leader. Your horse will interpret and compare everything you do in the context of herd behaviors.

Have you ever seen a horse respond well for a friend, but when you rode him he tried you? Rather than being stubborn as most folks would try to ascertain, he was simply telling you he was unsure of your leadership. Trust is not something that will be attained in a short amount of time; rather, it is built slowly and must be maintained daily.

Your horse will look to you for leadership, just as they look for the same within their herd.  When a horse trusts you, he knows you’ve got his back and that there is safety under your leadership; therefore there is no need for fear.  But he judges your ability to lead every time you are with him, because your lack of leadership may, in the herd, cost him his life.

We must be consistent in how we reinforce positive behaviors and correct bad behaviors. Again, we are emulating reactions in herd life. Our horses will always test our leadership to see if they can shift us from our course of action, which is a sign of weakness in a leader.

Be quick to praise and equally as quick to correct, and do it every time.  Trust can be lost if we lose sight on how our horse interprets our actions.

Begin to establish trust from the ground. If your horse doesn’t trust you on the ground, he is not going to trust you when you’re riding him.  Grooming is a bonding moment as it mirrors herd mechanics when horses groom each other.

If your horse approaches you unasked in the paddock, make him back up a couple of steps. He wasn’t invited to approach you. Once he stands for a little bit, invite him to walk up to you.

While on the trail and a “boogie” is encountered, stay cool in the saddle and urge your horse forward with consistency. Okay, my human is cool with this, so it must be safe. If you are tense in the saddle, it will transfer to your horse.

Round penning or longeing your horse also builds trust because you are in control of when, how, and where he moves, which again mimics natural herd dynamics.

Continually focusing on the bond shared with your horse and maintaining your position of leadership will strengthen your partnership and performance whether on the trail or along the rail.

By: Darlene M. Cox

The Challenges and Rewards of Owning a Draft Horse

Photo via Flickr

For as long as I can remember, I have loved horses. My love for them was inherited and began when listening to my grandmother speak of “Old Denny” a draft plow horse her father owned and used on their farm. She always spoke fondly of him as she told how she and her siblings would all pile onto Denny’s massive back and ride him while her father plowed the fields. The roles of the draft breeds from my grandmother’s time was that of work horses, whether they pulled plows, lumber skidders, or fire wagons for city fire departments.

Draft, or heavy breed, horses are known for their good temperaments, gentle nature, level headedness, and unflappability. There are many draft horse breeds (Clydesdale, Belgian, Percheron, etc.) with horses weighing at or over a ton, and several draft pony breeds (Haflinger,  Fjord, Gypsy Vanner, etc.), shorter in stature but with a draft build.

Popularity for draft breeds continues today, with some folks moving away from saddle horses and investing in these gentle giants, who can still be used to work farm land, pull wagons, and trail ride. Some folks have become homesteaders and enjoy the tranquility of working with draft horses to mow or plow their fields. They kindle a different kind of partnership with their horses than those maintained for pleasure riding.

There are challenges when moving from owning pleasure horses to maintaining draft horses, with the most obvious being increased expense for their maintenance and upkeep.

Surprisingly, you will not see a huge increase in your feed bill, as draft horses will only eat a little more than saddle horses and not double the amount that you might think.

You may see an increase in foot care as drafts require hoof maintenance like all other horse breeds. Not all farriers will work with draft breeds, and those who do may charge more for their services and may employ stocks to get the job done.

Veterinarian expenses will not increase, as draft horses require the same vaccine doses as saddle horses.

You will need to invest in larger, draft-sized tack and equipment to properly fit your big boy. Halters, bridles, saddles, blankets, etc., can be found in some local horse tack stores and can be ordered online through many horse supply houses.

Horse-powered farm equipment may need to be purchased if you plan to work your land with your horse.

You may need to purchase a larger and wider trailer to transport your draft, which may mean selling your slant load trailer for one with straight load capacity. Stalling accommodations need to be considered because a typical 10x12 stall will not work well for a draft horse.

The biggest challenge facing those new to draft horse ownership is learning how to “drive” a horse and wagon. There are many details involved in successfully harnessing a horse and hitching him to the wagon.

There are always solutions to challenges. As with any new horse endeavor, always seek out those who have great experience in handling drafts. Many states have Amish communities from which you may employ the help of a friendly Amish man to show you the ropes of working with your draft horse. Many rural communities have folks who participate in plow days and draft pulls. These experienced horsemen may also be able to instruct you in the nuances of draft ownership and handling.

Some horse auctions, particularly those in draft horse areas, will have wagons, farm equipment, tack, and other items specifically needed for your draft horse. Some saddle makers have draft sized English and western saddles, as well as bridles, halters, etc. for your big horse.

Just as with any other breed, your draft horse is surely to provide you with many years of enjoyment and quickly become a member of your family.

By: Darlene M. Cox

Physical Challenges Facing the Aging Rider

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Raise your hand along with me all you horse-loving Baby Boomers who have had the thought, ever fleeting as it may have been, how much longer will I be able to swing my stiff leg over the saddle and enjoy a day of trail riding? I see you out there, and I share your pain!

As we aging horse folks know, it is becoming ever difficult to perform some of the tasks we have done with our horses for many years.

We have aching joints and stiff fingers; our gripping strength is not as strong as it once was. 

Our hips, knees, backs, and shoulders hurt.

We are slower to tack up because our fingers hurt. 

Grooming our horse is no longer enjoyable because of carpal tunnel or arthritis. 

Mounting from the ground is impossible because we have had back surgeries. 

Riding long hours is excruciatingly painful because we have no cartilage in our knee. 

Saddles are too heavy or bulky to sling onto our horse’s back when our shoulders have limited range of motion from arthritis or rotator cuff damage.

Face it, we are a walking toothache!

Do we have to give up our beloved horses and the joy of saddling up early in the morning and riding all day? Absolutely not! As with other marketing industries catering to the needs of our aging generation, the makers of equine aids are joining in.

Oster markets ergonomic grooming tools that are easier to grip and maneuver. While they cost a little more than basic grooming implements, they are well worth the investment as they make the job easier for those suffering from arthritis, neuropathy, or stiffness in their fingers and hands.

You may need to change out saddles, switching to one that is lighter and features components that reduce strain on your back, hips, knees, and ankles.

The saddle needs to fit you. As much as you would love to keep your 15” barrel saddle, it may be time to move into a 16” seat. The cantle should be higher than the pommel.  This will center your shoulders, hips, and ankles and keep you balanced in the saddle.

Ergonomic stirrups, or EZ Stirrups, are a dream for those with knee issues. The wider, padded stirrup swivels to accommodate movement of your leg to a more comfortable position while keeping your foot centered to not only alleviate pain in your knees, but also your back.

There are several brands of ergonomic stirrups available. With the use of any stirrup, make sure your stirrup leathers aren’t too long, as this will place greater strain on your knees and back.

One-piece rope reins are easier to grip than flat, two piece leather or braided reins for those suffering with hand pain or gripping issues. Riding gloves may also assist with ease of gripping and keeping your reins in hand.

Mounting blocks can be your new best friend and alleviate great consternation in trying to get yourself in the saddle. There is no shame in using a mounting block, and once you get used to it you will ask yourself why you didn’t get one earlier.

While all of these gidgets and gadgets will reduce our pain when taking care of and enjoying our horses, the most important step is what we can do for ourselves: Stay fit! Trail riding can be very exerting and taxing on an aging body. Keeping your fitness level up will allow you to enjoy your horse and the trails for many years to come.

By: Darlene M. Cox

Taking Care of your Antique Horse

Our horses are part of our family, joining us at a young age and becoming an equine senior citizen as a cherished family member. Just as your horse has taken care of you along many miles of trail riding, it is now your turn to take care of him in his twilight years.

NUTRITION AND HEALTH

Nutrition and health care needs for an elderly horse are different than those of a younger horse. You can place an elderly horse in a wonderfully lush pasture; however, if he is smooth mouthed or has missing teeth, he cannot properly chew the grass to get the optimal nutrition from it. Also, improperly chewed grass can cause impaction colic in older horses. Hay cubes may be the best thing to feed your elder horse because the fibers are smaller than those in regular hay and can be digested by an aging system. Along with the hay cubes, other smaller fiber foods such as beet pulp, soy husks, and bran can be included in your horse’s diet. Pelleted senior feeds can be incorporated into the diet to aid in easier digestion and absorption. All of the above items can be soaked in water for those horses that are pretty much unable to chew anything due to many missing teeth.

Always make sure there is an ample supply of clean, fresh water for your horse, which helps prevent colic. Flavoring the water and keeping a salt block available for your horse will encourage more water consumption.

KEEP THEM ACTIVE

Exercise is important for your older horse, both for his mental and physical health. Continue riding your horse if there are no health concerns preventing it. As long as he is healthy, a horse can be ridden through his 20’s and even into his 30’s. Be mindful not to over-tax him with a work out that is too strenuous.  Keep in mind that you want to keep him in good tone and body condition in correlation with his age and not with how he looked as a six-year old.  A leisurely ride down the road and back is better than having him stand in his stall or hang out in the pasture. This will exercise his body and his mind. Horses always enjoy having a job.  If riding your miserly mount is not an option, you can hand walk him 20-30 minutes two or three times a week to allow for some exercise.

It is very important to keep our elderly horses properly vaccinated for common equine diseases. Advanced age will weaken and suppress the immune system, making our senior equines more susceptible to illness.  Dental care is equally important to take care of any teeth that may be remaining.

BE OBSERVANT

Be keenly observant of tell-tale signs that there may be some underlying problem with your elderly horse. Watch out for markedly increased water consumption and frequent urination, gait irregularities lameness or other mobility issues;   change in shape, color, and smell of manure; retention of winter coat. All of these things may indicate a potential health problem for your geriatric guy.

Older horses are easily stressed during colder weather, most likely because they are not able to process hay as easily through their hind gut, which is how they generate heat; or because they are not in optimal body condition. You may want to blanket him during the coldest of days and nights to make sure he is warm.

As hard as it is to even think about, be aware of when your trusted treasure and old friend is reaching the end of his journey. While it is never easy to say goodbye to a dearly loved horse, it is even worse to keep him languishing in poor health. Discuss with your veterinarian when the appropriate time may be to help your horse with his journey across the Rainbow Bridge.

Happy trails!

By: Darlene M. Cox (kyhomeagain@gmail.com)

Winter-Time Blanketing

Choosing the Best Blanket for your Horse

Here in the Midwest, the winter season has found its way onto our calendars and across our pastures. Blankets provide extra protection to keep your horse warm, dry, and clean during cold, snowy days.

WHEN TO BLANKET

Mom Nature has adequately planned to keep horses warm by providing them with thick, comfy winter coats; however, sometimes blanketing can provide a little more comfort to take the edge off the cold. Blanketing is not necessary for every horse and is dependent upon several factors such as climate, body condition, health, age, coat thickness, and shelter. If your horse is a healthy easy keeper, you may not need to blanket but, if your horse is not in the best body condition (skinny) with a thin coat, a blanket would be greatly appreciated.

TYPES OF BLANKETS

There are many different types and weights of blankets that are constructed to provide different levels of comfort for your horse. The thread count in a blanket is measured in “deniers”. The most durable and tear-resistant blankets will have higher denier counts. The insulation of a blanket is called the “fill”, which is measured in grams. A light/medium fill blanket will have between 100-200 grams and a 300 gram fill is the heavyweight blanket.

Stable blankets, which are lightweight and constructed of nylon and a light insulation layer, can be used to keep your stalled horse warm and clean on a cold night; although, you should not turn your horse out in the pasture wearing it since it is not water proof, unless you place a waterproof sheet under it.

The most durable blankets are the turnout blankets. These blankets are constructed to provide optimal warmth and dryness for your pastured horse. Turn-out blankets are breathable, which means they will not let cold air in but will allow sweat to evaporate from under the blanket. Many features in turn-out blankets allow for more freedom of movement with shoulder gussets and wear pads at the withers to prevent rubbing when your horse frolics around the pasture.

BLANKETING TIPS

You must be responsible when you blanket your horse and check his coat under the blanket often to make sure he remains dry. If he gets wet underneath the blanket, he will become chilled. Remove the blanket and rough up his coat with a dry towel and place a fleece cooler on him, which will expedite the drying of his coat.

Keep an eye on the weather and remove the blanket if temperatures rise above 45 degrees. Prior to removing the blanket, wipe a dryer fabric softener sheet over it to prevent static shock to your horse when you take the blanket off. Trust me, he will appreciate you doing this! After removing the blanket, you can use this time as an opportunity to wash the blanket to remove any dirt and gunk that may have accumulated on it. After removing the blanket, lightly groom your horse to brush off any dirt that may found its way under the blanket.

When spring finally arrives and the blanket comes off for the season, inspect it for wear and tear to determine if it can be cleaned and packed away for the next winter season or if it needs to be replaced.

Happy Trails!

By: Darlene M. Cox (kyhomeagain@gmail.com)

Bidding Adieu to Poo – Composting Horse Manure

If you have horses, you most certainly have an abundance of manure. Most horse folk probably look at dealing with this odorous offal as the price one must pay when having horses. The truth is, however, horse manure can be a beneficial resource for your farm and could possibly put some greenbacks in your hand as well.

There are many benefits to composting horse manure. The health of your horses can be positively impacted because flies and parasites are killed off by the high temperatures in the compost pile. Your pasture benefits as well because weed seeds cannot survive through the high temps as well.

Removing manure from your pastures and adding to your compost will provide more grazing capacity. Horses avoid grazing near manure piles (can’t say that I blame them); however, they don’t seem to mind the presence of composted manure when lightly spread over the pasture to encourage good grass growth by supplying rich nutrients to the soil.

The easiest way to compost is to build two composting bins which can be done easily and inexpensively, to store your compost. All that is required are landscape boards and lag screws to build a three-sided bin. Once the bin is full, it takes about two months for the composting process to be completed. It may be beneficial to build two bins where you can have a fresh compost bin and a completed bin.

When establishing your compost pile, you want to select an elevated spot that is not located near a water source. A well-managed compost pile will break down the manure quickly and will reduce the bulk that you would otherwise have on hand without composting. Odors are also diminished by composting, simply due to the natural process of the manure breaking down. It is important to try to keep foreign matter out of your compost pile. Some stall bedding (straw) composts quicker than others (sawdust).

The success of your compost pile relies on two important things: Heat and air movement. Optimal heating levels are achieved by having a pile that is at least three feet high. Heat is obtained from decomposition and internal combustion as the manure breaks down. Air movement is easily achieved by using your tractor to turn the pile and moving the outside compost to the inside of the pile. Moving the pile allows air to reach all areas and provides the fuel for combustion. If you don’t have a tractor, you can insert several PVC pipes, with holes drilled through them, down through the pile to provide air flow.

The temperature of your compost pile will vary through composting cycle. The range is generally between (100 degrees to 120 degrees on the lower end and rising to around 130 – 150 degrees to effectively kill off fly and parasite eggs. The temperature of the pile will drop when composting is nearing completion.

Water is also an important component for your pile; however, you don’t want too much of it. Too much water will limit the amount of air flow and will cause odors. Covering your pile may be necessary during any wet periods. You also don’t want your pile to be too dry. Compost should have about as much moisture as you might find in peat moss; somewhat damp, but not dripping.

Composted horse manure is a marketable commodity and can easily be sold to landscapers, plant nurseries, topsoil companies, or to your neighbors who want to use it to enrich their gardens. Contact some of these businesses to see if they may be interested in buying your compost. The money you make from it can then be put back into your horse operation. You will find that the work involved in maintaining your compost pile is minimal compared to the benefits you receive from it.

Happy trails!

By: Darlene M. Cox (darlc5@aol.com)

As the Worm Turns: Managing Parasite Burdens in Your Horse

Most who own horses are aware that horses play host to a varying degree of parasite burdens. Life for the parasite living inside your horse is pretty comfy. Its needs are being met as the horse provides the amenities of warmth and fine dining, which allow the parasite to grow and develop, while causing problems for your horse. The life of a parasite is cyclical and its existence relies on its ability to perpetuate its life cycle by living and reproducing in the horse, with eggs being expelled outside in dung, and reinfesting the horse again as the horse grazes.

While this cycle cannot be stopped, it can at least be slowed down and effectively controlled with a two-prong approach of smart farm management practices and fecal egg count monitoring, with use of deworming agents when parasite load numbers require intervention. Many horse owners maintain a regular de-worming program by administering deworming agents on a six-to-eight-week schedule or via a daily feed-through supplement; however, it has recently been suggested that parasites are becoming resistant to these medications, and it may be best to use them only when parasite numbers are high.

Fecal egg count monitoring for each horse will allow you to tailor treatment for each individual horse. Not every horse will carry the same parasite load, so it only stands to reason that treatment regimens should be administered based upon the amount of infestation maintained by each horse. You would not want to treat a horse with a low count as you would one with a high count. Treatment should not be considered a "one treatment program fits all" regimen.

Probably the most important weapon, and generally the one easily overlooked, in parasite management is using wise farm management practices. The beginning life cycle of parasites begins outside the horse, when egg infested dung lies on the ground and horses graze near the dung ingesting the parasite once again. Parasite numbers on the ground can be greatly reduced by removing dung from the pasture or by breaking the piles up and exposing the inside of the pile to sunlight. For larger pastures, mowing or dragging the will break these piles up. If you arm yourself with a wheelbarrow, utility trailer, and a stall cleaning fork, you can pick up dung piles in smaller pastures.

While it may be difficult for many seasoned horse owners to back away from using the repetitive deworming program, you may want to chat with your veterinarian about fecal egg count/parasite load based treatment, just to see if this new regimen may be best for your horse.

Happy trails!

By: Darlene M. Cox (darlc5@aol.com)

Horse Behavior: Feeding Your Horses According to Pecking Order

Have you ever experienced the wild melee of an equine feeding frenzy when you feed pastured horses? If you have, the reason behind this explosive and dangerous fury could solely reside with the failure of feeding the horses according to pecking order ranking.

As herd animals, horses live within an established and innate hierarchical system upon which an "alpha", or dominant, horse reigns over those of limited ranking and stature. As simply as the alphabet goes from A to Z and numbers from 0 to 10, so goes the ranking of the horses in your herd, with each horse holding a higher placement above those of subordinate positions.

Your understanding of herd ranking is very important when it comes to feeding your horses in an open pasture. When feeding grain, use buckets that can be placed within a circle and separated by no fewer than two horse lengths apart. Well-spaced buckets will prevent those horses with a higher ranking to claim or guard multiple buckets. Always place at least one extra bucket of grain to allow for the natural movement of the herd if a higher ranking horse moves a subordinate horse away from a bucket. This will allow the lowest horse in the herd to get his fair share of grain, too. Generally, the rank and file will fall into order for feeding after the alpha horse has begun eating. Always get the alpha horse engaged with its meal first. If you do not use buckets for feeding, place grain on top of a hay flake and place the hay within the same distances as described above.

Always be aware of the horses around you and know what is going on. There may be small skirmishes during feeding time as pecking orders are somewhat fluid with challenges being made as one tries to gain a higher position. Never position yourself within the inside of the herd, always work on the perimeter or outside, which will better avail you with watching the horses in front of you. Don't let a horse rush at you when feeding it in pasture. Remember that you are the true "alpha" of your herd and any rush toward you is a challenge to your authority.

When collecting the buckets after feeding, be watchful of any horses loitering around hoping for "extras". There is a potential risk of injury any time you are around horses free on pasture. Again use the perimeter approach and be aware of what horses are around you.

Happy trails! 

By: Darlene M. Cox, darlc5@aol.com 

Before the Snow Falls: Getting Your Barn Ready for the Winter

By: Darlene M. Cox

darlc5@aol.com

While it may be hard to fathom during late summer or early fall that snow will be blowing; winter will be here before you know it. Now is the time to prepare your barn for the winter months. Anticipation for the cold season ahead and advanced preparation for such will make the transition into the winter season much easier and safer for you and your horses. Here are a few suggestions on how to transition your barn from summer to winter:

• Clear the clutter. Clean out your tack room. Inventory your tack and grooming implements. Toss the ones that are worn or broken. Recoup some cash for those that you may have duplicates of (Ebay, garage sale, tack auction, etc.). Clean up aisle ways, wash bays, indoor arenas. Remove stall fans to storage, inspecting them for any damage to electrical cord and components, Discard if any are noted. Store light-weight sheets and blankets, replacing them with winter blankets to have readily available for those cold and frigid turnout mornings. If any blanket needs to be repaired, now is the time to do it. If the aisle way to your barn is pea gravel, you may consider bringing in a new load and raking it smooth to provide for stable and dry footing over the winter months. Warm weather delivery serves the dual purpose of advance preparedness and prevents muddy tire trenches that may result from winter time gravel delivery.
• Inventory your medicine cabinet and cleaning/grooming supply chest and remove any items that will freeze or somehow be adversely affected or damaged by cold temperatures. This would be a good time to take note of what medical or grooming supplies you might need to replace or purchase explicitly for winter-time usage.
• Indoor air quality is very important to horses and humans alike during the winter months. Dispose of old hay and bedding. Sweep out dusty hay loft floors; de-cobweb stalls and aisle ways, particularly around lighting fixtures.
• Inspect all electrical components. Make sure your outlet boxes are cleaned of cobwebs and dust, and are securely mounted. Inspect outlet ports for power, noting those that are not working properly as the wiring may need to be inspected by an electrician. Inspect wiring for any wear and tear. If damage is noted, contract a licensed electrician to replace. Inspect electrical cords of any electrical implement that may be used. Replace all fuses and double check that the correct fuse is installed appropriately (i.e., if the slot in the electrical box calls for 10 amp fuse, don't put a 30 amp fuse in). Check the circuit box for weak circuits. Fire/electrocution hazards can be prevented by replacing weak circuits and blown fuses. Inspect fire extinguishers for charge. Replace batteries in existing smoke detectors. If you don't have smoke detectors, consider installing them. Inspect any electric water-heating devices for wear and damage. Discard and replace if any is noted.
• Insulate any exposed water pipes with spray polyurethane foam, do not use electrical tape. Replace water hose with one that does not freeze.
• Prepare stalls for usage by installing stall mats or bedding that will alleviate the build up of excessive ammonia from urine. Ammonia can damage your horse's lungs and be a major contributory factor for upper respiratory infection. The rule of thumb is: if you can smell ammonia, the damage has already been done. Re-working the stalls will also provide better footing and prevent possible casting incidences.
• Check all the hardware (latches, hinges, etc.) on stall doors to ensure they are not damaged or in need of replacement. Horses have been seriously injured by damaged stall door hardware.
• Eliminate excessive draftiness. While you do not necessarily want an air-tight barn, neither do you want one that is so drafty your horse may be inordinately chilled. Seal any major air leaks in stalls by repairing/replacing boards and/or window shutters.

Being proactive and prepared for the upcoming winter season will ease you into winter with a lot fewer worries during those cold winter nights when you know your horses are comfortable and warmly bedded down in their stalls. Happy trails!

Effective Pasture Management for Small Acreage Farms

By Darlene M. Cox

Living close to and working in the Horse Capital of the World (Lexington, Kentucky) provides me many opportunities to drive through 'horse country' and enjoy the beautiful picturesque views of horses grazing on rolling carpets of thick, lush, green grass from virtually weed-free pastures. These beautifully maintained pastures are in stark contrast to the ones that may be found on farms of smaller acreage that many recreational horse owners have. It is possible, however, for your small, family-owned farm to mirror, on a smaller scale, those Kodak-moment inspired pastures of Kentucky 's Thoroughbred industry.

I recently had an opportunity to converse with a senior grounds keeper of one of the more prestigious and renowned horse farms in Kentucky about pasture management and how effective pasture maintenance plans could be utilized for smaller farms. Regardless of the number of acres to be managed, it all boils down to the same fundamental practices:

§ Soil samples should be taken to determine fertilizer requirements. Based upon the testing results, a lime-potassium- phosphorous fertilizer should be applied. This application can be done at any time during the year; however, it is important to have the soil sample results prior to fertilizing, because applying too much fertilizer cause harm to soil. Nitrogen should be applied to pastures late in the fall to set up the pastures for a healthy growth of spring time grass.

§ Fecal egg counts should be done on your horses to determine the number of parasites that may infest pastures. Along with adherence to a timely and effective de-worming schedule for your horses, you should also 'drag' pastures to break up manure piles and expose any parasitic eggs to the sun, which will effectively kill off the parasite.

§ Begin preparation and planning of your spring pastures in the fall. If you seed your own pastures with your own implements, make sure the equipment is in good repair and ready to go. If you hire it out to someone, schedule a firm date with no more than a week's window time to ensure the pasture prep work is done timely. Fall is best for seeding cool-season grasses (Kentucky bluegrass, orchard grass) and late winter or really early spring is best for seeding clover.

§ Managing damage control to pastures on small acreage farms is tantamount to growing season productivity. During winter and the early spring wet season, horses should not be turned out, as to stave off the mud and muck build-up and destruction of grass root systems. One viable alternative is to partition off part of the pasture for use during inclimate seasons. The reasoning behind this is it's best to lose part of your pasture than all of it. If this is not a feasible solution, you can also minimize damage by rotating hay feeding locations. It is also a good idea to limit any vehicle traffic (i.e., farm truck, tractor, manure spreader, etc.) during this time period.

§ The acreage size and the number of horses on your pastures will affect the amount of usage you get from your pastures. It is important to maintain an appropriate horse-to-acreage ratio. Farms with smaller acreage need to be more closely managed related to the amount of grazing time permitted. Horses are the ultimate grazing machines, as they were created with that specific purpose in mind. Horses are continuous grazers; simply put, if grass is in front of theme, they are going to eat it. A horse will consume as much as 2% to 2.4% of their body weight, per day, in grass, (i.e., a 1200-lb horse will eat between 24 - 28 pounds of grass per day). Effective rotation and/or dry-lotting your horses to allow your pastures time to rebound and will help keep them established. Pasture rebound time can vary between location and time of year. Generally, 20 days minimum should be allowed for pastures to 'rest' before horses are placed back on them.

§ The grazing season in Kentucky can run from March (when the cool-season grasses really start coming on) through November (when the first killing frosts of winter arrive). This is nine months of grazing time that requires proper management to keep the grass yield and health of your pastures at an optimal level to best benefit your horses. An effective pasture rotation system can be undertaken with the implementation of segmented pasturing, which breaks up the whole pasture into multiple segments from which the horses will be rotated from one to the next, allowing previously grazed segments to recover and gain new grass growth, while out competing the growth of new broadleaf weeds. Effective rotation cycles will also disrupt parasite cycles.

§ An effective broadleaf weed herbicide should be applied in early spring, while the weeds are still small. A high emphasis is placed on properly using the herbicide and applying the recommended amount. As with any chemical, read and follow all labeling instructions prior to use. I realize that many owners of small farms may be hesitant to implement an herbicide program on their pastures for fear of harm that may befall their horses; however, the efficacy of herbicide programs is quite evident when looking at Kentucky 's horse farms, which house the world's most expensive Thoroughbred horses. It is evident and apparent that an accurate and efficient herbicide application program can be successfully implemented whereas not to adversely affect the lives and well-being of horses housed on these farms.

Utilization of the above pasture- management principals will aide in keeping your pastures healthy and established throughout the year. You may even have the perfect green back-fall for your own Kodak moment.

Happy trails!

Choosing a Boarding Facility

By: Darlene M. Cox
darlc5@aol.com

While the perfect horse ownership scenario would have your horse happily ensconced in his pasture or barn right outside your backdoor, many horse owners do not own a farm or other sufficient land and find it necessary to locate a boarding facility to house their horse. But how do you go about selecting a boarding facility and how do you know if it is the right one? Before any consideration or selection of facilities is made, you must remember this one key statement: There are no perfect boarding facilities-- period. If it was perfect, it would be on your own land. Keeping this very important statement in mind will help you when it comes time to choose the facility that's right for you.

It is important to make personal visits to several boarding facilities to evaluate them for safety and suitability. Pastures need to have safe fencing and be clutter free. Go into the stalls and check out the water buckets; are they clean with fresh water? Evaluate the stall flooring and the type of bedding that is used. Is it suitable for what you like used for your horse? Are there any exposed electrical wires hanging down in the stalls? Any exposed nails? Talk not only to the barn managers, but also to any boarder who may be there to get their opinion of the facility. If the barn manager bristles about your talking with another boarder, consider that a bad sign and mark that facility off of your list. Ask questions, ask questions, and ask questions. Will the facility be responsible for providing grain and hay? Inspect the quality of the grain and hay. Will they do the feedings, or will you be responsible for feeding? How many times a day will your horse be fed? Will they feed your supplements or feed additives? Who will have access to your horse? How many people are on staff? What is the experience level of the boarding staff? Does the management share your vision of acceptable/accountable horse care? What is the contact procedure for any emergency that may arise? Will they call your vet or use the vet that comes to the barn? In the event of injury, will they provide the daily care for your horse? Will your horse be stall boarded or pasture boarded? Will your horse be turned out? Does the barn arrange for vet and farrier visits? Is there room for you to park your horse trailer (if applicable)? Does the facility have individual tack storage areas? Are the pastures safe and clutter-free? How many horses will be turned out on pasture together? Are the horses segregated based on gender (i.e., mares, geldings, stallions)?

What are the rules of the barn? Some boarding facilities may be lax on their rules and others may be over- bearing; you need to choose which will better suit your tastes in being told what to do and when to do it.

What kind of facility is it? Does it offer lessons? Does it have indoor and outdoor arenas? Does it have other amenities that you like, or dislike? What type of boarder keeps their horse there? If you are strictly a trail rider and the facility houses mostly show horses, you may not find the atmosphere conducive to garnering friendships with anyone there or you may feel there is no connectivity between you and others.

How will your horse fit into a boarding facility? Is he one that is used to being turned out with several other horses or is he used to being alone or with only one other horse?

If a signed boarding contract is required, read over the contract carefully and then re-read it. All of the rules of the facility should be listed in the contract. Everything that management expects from you, the boarder, should be spelled out in the contract. If no boarding contract is required, it may be best to go elsewhere. Get references from the barn manager. Phone the references to get their candid opinions of the boarding facility, its operation, and its management. Inquiries can also be made from local vets and feed stores of area boarding facilities.

If the above questions can be answered to your satisfaction, then finding the boarding facility right for you and your horse just got easier. If the questions cannot be satisfactorily answered, you need to continue your search or find a good realtor who can sell you a prime piece of farmland where you can put your horse right outside your backdoor.

Happy trails!

Be Ready for the Riding Season – Trailer Maintenance

This article is taken from our March newsletter. It's chock full of horse care tips, helpful articles, and coupon codes! Click here to subscribe.

By: Darlene M. Cox (darlc5@aol.com)

The off season is the best time to do your trailer maintenance. Getting started now will provide you ample time to make sure all systems are good, which will afford you safe travels when the riding season arrives.

• Wash the outside of your trailer, top to bottom, to remove any dirt and grime that has accumulated. This will help prevent any corrosive rusting. I like to take my trailer to a do-it-yourself car wash for this, as they have the high-pressure water hose and the wash bay doesn’t get as messy as my barn lot.

• Axles, bearings, and lug nuts should be inspected for maintenance issues that may exist. If you are skilled, you can do this yourself. If not, it is best to have a certified mechanic check these out. Most axles have a port that you can use to grease your bearings. Simply connect a grease gun to the port to deliver new grease to the bearings. Make sure you do not over grease, because you can blow out your bearings. Make sure your lug nuts are tight and not stripped or rusted through. If you find they are, you will need to take your trailer to a mechanic to have them replaced.

• Check the horse box flooring for areas of rot (wood) or corrosion (metal/aluminum). It is important to check from both the top and underneath the trailer. If your flooring feels soft or “spongy” you may want to replace the affected boards or have a metal reinforcement piece welded in place.

• While you are under the trailer checking out the flooring, also check out the frame to make sure it is not damaged in any way. I bent frame will affect the way your trailer hauls, which will also affect tire wire and place tension on the hitch. If you find the frame is damaged, have a mechanic correct the problem.

• Replace any worn/torn/damaged rubber matting. Check the horse box for any metal protrusions that may injure your horse. Replace bumper rails that are worn and torn. Make sure there is no rust on the breakaway strap hardware that will interfere with releasing your horse in an emergency.

• Rotate the tires on your trailer and check them for wear and dry rot. Check the valve stems for proper seating. Replace any damaged or worn tires. Make sure trailer tires are properly inflated to the correct psi for the tire. Don’t forget to check your spare tire, too. Anyone who has traveled with their trailer will one day rely on that spare tire.

• Check trailer brakes and replace any worn parts. Adjust your brake setting by driving your trailer a short distance and braking hard. Adjust the brake box setting until all brakes engage at the same time and you don’t have any grabbing or locking.

• If your trailer is equipped with a breakaway battery, it is important that this be checked for charge and effectiveness. Recharging it on a battery charger is simple. Checking its efficacy is a little more difficult but well worth the effort. Use a tire jack under each of the tires, pull the pin from the breakaway battery and try to move the tire. If you can move it, the battery is not working appropriately and may need to be replaced.

• Check the wiring on your trailer to make sure all lights and signals are working. Replace any damaged wiring.

• All lights and turn signals should be checked. If you find they are not working, you may have an electrical wiring problem that needs to be addressed, or it could be as simple as replacing a bulb or fuse.

• Check the door latches on the horse box and make sure they work easily and keep the door securely closed. If there is a lot of “play” in the latch or if the door is not secure, you may need to replace the latch. Make sure the latch housing is not rusted. If it is, you may need to have a little spot welding done.

• Make sure your trailer hitch connects securely with the receiver or ball. There should be no looseness when you hook up the trailer. If you are required to run with safety chains, make sure the connectors are secure and tight.

• If your trailer has windows, check them for any hardware problems that might exist with opening/closing. Check your screens and replace them if they are torn. Screening kits can be purchased and are easy to use to replace torn screens. Check your windows for water leaks and use some clear silicone if you find a leaky spot.

• Check your air conditioning unit for any water leaks and use clear silicone if any are found. Replace/clean your AC filter. Check your AC vents to make sure birds haven’t built nests in it.

Regular trailer maintenance will assure you years of use and safe travel for you and your horse.

Happy trails!

Say 'Whoa' to Winter Woes: Money and Time Saving Tips

This article is taken from our February newsletter. It's chock full of horse care tips, helpful articles, and coupon codes! Click here to subscribe.

By: Darlene M. Cox, darlc5@aol.com

We are definitely in the grip of winter as Mother Nature blows cold arctic air down upon us, bringing with it the beautiful, yet burdensome, snowfalls. While spring will most certainly arrive, we must persevere to get through winter. Undoubtedly, barn chores take longer to do during the winter months when you factor in the multiple layers of clothes you must dress in, snow drifts that may need to be navigated around, frozen ice buckets and troughs to be cleared, and mucky mud pits at barn entrances that are just waiting to suck the boots right from your feet.

Yes, it is definitely no picnic dealing with the daily care of our horses during this cold and blustery season, but there are things you can do to save a little money and time:

· Reduce the cost of your farrier expenses by pulling shoes from your horse during the off season. This will allow some resting time for your horse's feet and keep some money in your pocket. Also, you may not need to have your farrier come out every six weeks, as hooves grow slower during winter months. An added health/safety bonus in keeping your horse unshod during winter is that snowballs will not accumulate on his feet, which will reduce tendon injuries. If you have a horse that must remain shod, consider using Vaseline petroleum jelly or shortening on the soles to keep snowballs from accumulating. You could also have your farrier place some snow pads under the shoes.

· Prevent plumbing expenses and the hassle of having to haul water in by wrapping exposed water pipes with heat tape or a pipe sleeve. For really frigid nights, you may want to let your water nozzle drip into a bucket to keep pipes from freezing. Disconnect hoses, because water will back flush from the hose to the water pipe and freeze.

· Provide your horse with ample paddock time. Unless the weather is particularly bad, your horse will prefer to be outside and not stuck in his stall. This will save you time and expense of having to clean stalls as often.

· Prevent icy build-up in watering buckets and troughs by using heated buckets or a heating element designed for troughs. Horses do not like to drink ice cold water and will not consume as much as they should, which my increase the chance of impaction colic. Feed your horse salt to encourage water consumption during winter months. If you do not have electricity at your barn, coat the inside of water buckets and troughs with vegetable oil, which will make the ice block slide out easier when dumping.

· Carpet remnants can be used to cover snow and ice covered paths and provide better traction for moving your horse between paddock and barn. You can also cut up carpet strips to keep in your truck to use for traction if you happen to get stuck in the snow. A carpet section can also be used to bring hay to your horses. Just place the bale or flakes on the carpet and drag it across the snow.

· Limit your exposure to the elements by pre-measuring the grain for the next feeding cycle. Prepare the evening feed, right after feeding the morning regimen, and then do the same preparation for the next morning's feed the night before.

· Save time on winter grooming by focusing only on badly soiled areas, such as bellies, feet, and legs. Grooming will flatten down your horse's hair coat, which will actually make them colder. Wait for a warmer day to do entire body grooming.

Dress warm, stay safe, and keep your eyes on the calendar for spring will definitely be here before you know it.

Happy trails!

Walking the Line: The Importance of Fence Selection for Horse Safety

By: Darlene M. Cox (darlc5@aol.com)

Many horse owners will agree that nothing sends one’s heart into your throat quicker than learning your horses have breeched the pasture or paddock fencing and are wandering, unprotected, along a busy road front or are running loose in the community. The safety of your horses is only as certain as the ability of your fencing to keep them safely confined within the realm of their enclosure.

Several types of fencing are available, each with their own strengths, weaknesses, and dangers, along with optimum uses to meet the requirements of the area to be fenced. No fence type is 100% safe or escape resistant; however, coupling the appropriate fencing structure with the dynamics of the area to be fenced will ensure you are providing the best barrier protection for the safety of your horses.

When selecting fencing structures, keep in mind what the fence must provide: function (keeping the horses confined), safety, and eye appeal. In my home state of Kentucky, mile after rolling mile of pasture is fenced with black or white wooden, double and perimeter, 4-or-5-rail fencing. This type of fencing structure ranks foremost in meeting the three criteria defined above; however, it is also the most costly to construct and maintain; therefore, it may not be financially feasible for all. Horses recognize the strength of the wooden rails and will learn about its durability when they “test” it. Attaching the rails on the “horse side” of the fence will easily bear the weight and prevent fasteners from being loosened. The rails are highly visible to horses, and minimize run-through incidents, while well-placed boards (12” between rails and 8” from the ground) prevent hoof and leg entanglements. Perimeter fencing provides the added security that if a horse does escape from a pasture or paddock, it is still confined within the property by the perimeter fence.

Rail fences are most often made of treated 2” x 6” oak or pine planks, varied in length between 8-to-12 feet, and are constructed to a height of 5 feet (5 rail) for pasture fencing or 4 ½ feet (4 rail) for paddock fencing. Treated wood provides a longer life span for the wood and deters horses from chewing it. Painting provides an added barrier against damage and may increase the service life of the wood. Fence lines are easily accessible for clearing and cleaning. Over time, wooden rails and posts will decay and will require replacement to protect the integrity of the fencing structure.

In the event of a barrier charge, breaking and splintering of the wooden rails may occur and can cause serious injury to horses; however, most horses respect this fencing structure and breeches predominantly occur because of a flight-or-fight response or a physical altercation between two horses in adjacent pastures that choose their battleground over the fence. Double fencing will prevent such contact. These barriers should be constructed with removable rails and be wide enough to allow access for mowing and other maintenance requirements.

If a rail fence is preferred, but the combined expense of wooden rails and maintenance is too costly, you may choose to use vinyl plastic fencing or vinyl coated wood. While the purchase price of vinyl fencing may be more than wooden rails, the upkeep proves to be less costly in money and maintenance as painting is not required, although periodic pressure washing with an anti-mildew agent is necessary. Vinyl railing is not as strong as wooden rails and may be damaged when a horse leans into or rubs against it. Sustained injuries and their resultant severity may be reduced as the vinyl rails will not splinter and produce jagged ends when broken. The overall structural integrity of vinyl fencing may be compromised and weakened when adjacent railed sections are damaged; therefore, it may be prudent to closely inspect the fencing system any time such damage is sustained. Vinyl coated wood rails have the same properties of painted or treated wooden rails, yet offer the same maintenance requirements as vinyl plastic rails.

Various wire component fencing options and derivatives of wire and vinyl are available and may be more cost-conducive to farm and horse owners. Wire fencing may also better suit the terrain on some farms.

Woven wire fences are the most conventional and least expensive of wire fencing structures. Constructed of 4-to-6 inch square “woven” segments, the wire stretched between and affixed to wooden or metal posts that are separated at distances between 8-to-12 feet. As with the wooden rail fence, the wire should be affixed to the posts on the “horse side” of the fence to better withstand any “testing”. A 3” ground clearance should be afforded to prevent horses from walking the fence down. If ground clearance is too high, horses will attempt to graze under the fence and risk becoming entangled, potentially injuring themselves and damaging the fence. Further damage may occur as horses hang their heads over the top and press down, causing slack between the posts and “crumpling” the fence by bending the weaves. Mashing can be abated by running a wooden rail across the top and affixing the woven wire to the rail. The inclusion of a single electric wire inside of the wooden rail will provide added protection. Tight tensioning will prevent horses from loosening the bottom of the fence. Maintenance requires replacement of the wooden poles that may be damaged or weakened by rot and re-tightening fencing segments between poles. It is important to keep the fence line clear of vegetation, as unabated growth can weaken the structure.

Diamond patterned mesh wire fencing, a type of woven wire, is ideal for keeping out transient animals, such as dogs, skunks, opossums, ground hogs, etc. Although this fencing proves more costly than conventional woven wire, the small diamond-shaped opening prevents hoof entanglement and is safer for use with horses, which may well be worth the investment if woven wire is your best option.

The most basic of the wire fences is the electric fence that, in essence, provides a psychological barrier of a sudden high voltage, yet harmless, electrical shock to a horse when it is touched. Most horses (and humans) quickly learn to respect the fence and lose their desire to purposefully risk an encounter. Although, there are some who learn that the barrier can quickly be broken as the resultant shock is minimal in duration.

Many styles of electrical fencing are available, from its simplest form of a single smooth wire strand, to more graduated types which include vinyl coated wire, poly rope wire, and poly tape. Electric fences should consist of no fewer than two strands, with greater barrier protection being afforded to three or more strands, with five strands being optimal. Utilizing a five strand electric fence with alternating hot/cold (ground) wires will provide optimal current to the fence as the cold wires allow for circuitous flow of electricity back to the charger.

Poly rope and poly tape wire provide a visible barrier; however, vinyl coated and smooth wire may need to have cloth ribbons tied to the top strand to provide horses with visible evidence of the fenced boundaries. Electric fencing is most likely the easiest form of fencing to breech, and with the use of smooth electric wiring may cause the most serious of injuries, as wire entanglements will cut deeply into flesh. Because of the greater likelihood of injury, electric wire fencing should never be used for small enclosures.

Maintenance issues are minimal with this type of fencing, although it is recommended that daily checks be made to ensure the charger is working to power the fence. Routine mowing should be done to prevent contact and grounding out by grasses and weeds that have grown tall enough to touch the bottom line.

High tension wire is less costly than other types of fencing and could be a good option based upon the durability of galvanized wire, which resists rusting, and the fact that the fence can be run greater distances (up to 20 feet) between posts, resulting in fewer fence posts needed. As its name implies, this type of wire may prove to be high maintenance as a result of the effects of temperature variations. High temperatures cause the wire to expand, resulting in slack fencing, and cold temperatures cause the wire to contract and over-tighten, which may result in damage to fence posts.

Poly-coated high tension wiring is available to provide for visibility; however, grievous injuries have been sustained by horses that have become entangled in high tension wire. A safety feature has been built in to immediately release the tension in the event of entanglement.

High tension wire can be electrified to further prevent contact from horses, and may provide the better option for your horses’ safety should you choose to use this type of fencing. Electrifying the wire would require the use of a coated wire to better conduct the electricity.

Regardless of the type of fencing you have or may choose to secure the safety of your horses, regular inspection is required to identify problems before they become catastrophes. With each step of “walking the line” of your fencing, you can rest easily at night knowing your horses are safely enclosed behind a secure barrier, separating them from harm and protecting you from loss.

Happy trails!

Make Your Own Fly Trap: Death to the Pests!

I, Stephanie, have a personal vendetta against flies. I can't stand the way they sound. I can't stand the way they look---all hairy and buggish. I can't stand the way they relentlessly bother our equine friends. Which is why I'm delighted to bring you a cheap, quick death trap for these abominable pests. Hang a few in your barn and your fly population will swiftly decrease. Now if you have a tender heart toward insects, there are fly traps you can make where the flies are humanely trapped, not killed. Then I suppose you'd drive them to the nearest state park and set them free to frollick among the lilies. Me, I'm all for disposing of as many as possible.

To make your own fly trap, all you'll need is the following:

Empty 2 liter bottle, heavy scissors or knife, duct tape, 24inch long piece of twine or rope

For the bait: Dish soap, water (I used freshly filtered. See? I'm providing the best for their last moments upon the earth. Now excuse me while I pat myself on the back.) You'll also need vinegar, sugar, and a banana. Mine came out of the freezer. What? Doesn't everyone have half a dozen black bananas in their freezer? You can also just use a chunk of raw meat, but....ew.

To begin, take the label off your bottle and using scissors or a knife, cut the top of the bottle right were the top of the lable was.

Now stir in 1/2--1 cup sugar, 1/4 cup vinegar, a couple drops of dish soap, one banana peel (you can throw the fruit in if you're feeling generous. Me? I'm making banana bread.) Add two cups of warm water and give it a good stir.

Take the top of the bottle that you cut off, place it spout down over the bait, line up the edges, and duct tape the layers together. Use your scissors to poke two holes on opposite sides of the bottle, then take your twine and tie knots to secure. Your finished trap should look like this:


Hang your traps in the barn and dispose of them when you deem them full. Your horses will thank you. And until flies are on the endangered species list and I develop a conscience about killing them, I will too.
Anyone have more tips on fly control?