5 Saddle Fitting Myths Every Horse Owner Should Know

Spring is just around the corner here in the Midwest - March 20 to be exact (we’re not counting or anything!). With thawing snow and budding trees you are probably itching to get out in the stalls and sort through the inventory of saddles, tack, and equipment you have collected over the years.

If you find yourself in the market for a new saddle, here are five saddle fitting myths to keep in mind as you search for the perfect fit.

Myth #1: One size fits all.

We frequently find ourselves explaining that one size saddle does not fit all horses. This seems like basic information, but for a first-time horse owner, it can be baffling to find that saddles not only come with different seat sizes for the rider, but they also come with different tree sizes for your horse. Regardless of how much your horse weighs or how wide you think his back is, measuring just to make sure can save you the headache of returning an ill-fitting saddle. Need more help? You can download our free gullet templates at www.HorseSaddleShop.com.

Myth #2: I’ll be able to buy a saddle that fits two different horses.

There is a rare exception to this myth, and that is if you have two horses that are extremely similar in weight, back width, back length, and wither shape. But a mere 25 pounds in the wrong spot, a 3 inch shorter back, or a slightly higher wither can mean a saddle fitting one horse and hurting another. If you are shopping for two horses, we recommend focusing on one horse at a time instead of trying to come up with a compromise between the two. Compromising saddle fit is, quite frankly, compromising your horse’s comfort, and therefore, his behavior. 

Myth #3: A good saddle pad will solve my saddle fitting problems.

Many horse owners think that putting a good saddle pad under an ill-fitting saddle will alleviate pinching, slipping, or uneven pressure. Good saddle pads can cause the saddle to fit better. There is much technology in the pad industry to help a saddle fit better and you should take advantage of that technology. However, padding-up to help eliminate sores from a poor fitting saddle is not a good choice. Many times, padding up will just magnify the fitting issues you are already experiencing.

Myth #4: All saddles that claim to be semi-quarter horse have the same gullet width.

There are many variations to this myth. The truth is that the saddle industry uses terms loosely. Semi-quarter horse bars are often referred to as quarter horse bars, but others use the term quarter horse bars to describe wide bars, so the same saddle can be given different terms. This is very confusing to someone buying their first saddle. We have tried to wrestle this myth to the ground in our shop by standardizing our terms. We apply the term “medium” to regular, narrow, or semi-quarter horse bars and the term “full” to wide, full quarter horse bars.

Myth #5: I have to be an expert to tell if my saddle fits properly.

With all the helpful articles on saddle fitting on the web today, it can feel like you have to know a textbook full of information to be able to select a well-fitting saddle. Many customers call feeling exasperated wondering, “Is it really THAT hard?” No, it isn’t! All you have to be sure of is your horse and your saddle needs - no one can be an expert on those two areas but you!

Here are a few tips: If you are having a specific problem, like white hairs on your horse or saddle slippage, troubleshoot those areas first. If you know your horse’s build and figure out what size tree will fit, half of your work is done. Most saddle fitting problems arise from a saddle that…doesn’t fit!

For more saddle fitting myths and tips like this, make sure you visit our Help Center over at www.HorseSaddleShop.com

Winter Care for your Aged Horse

At the age of 51, I can attest that winter seems to be longer and colder than those of my younger years. Our aged horses most likely look at winter this very same way. The cold months of winter are the most difficult for an aged horse, particularly one that may also have underlying chronic health conditions such as holding a healthy weight, arthritis, respiratory issues or dental problems.

PREPARING FOR WINTER

It is best to prepare your horse in advance for the upcoming winter season, and it is very important to insure he is coming into the winter months at the best possible health, body condition and weight. It is very difficult for an aged horse to gain weight during winter due to the amount of energy required for him to keep warm; however, with consistent attention and effort you may be able to keep his weight steady.

You must keep your elderly horse warm during winter to prevent him from becoming chilled to the point of shivering. An enormous amount of energy is expended when a horse shivers to keep warm, and he will drop a lot of weight because of this.

COUNTING CALORIES

The most important tool in combating the chill of winter is nutrition. A horse expends a lot of energy trying to stay warm and this energy must be re-kindled with ample amounts of food. Calorie intake not only provides energy, but also builds fat which puts on a protective layer against cold weather. Hay, which metabolizes more slowly through the digestive process and provides the best heat, is the most important food product for your elderly horse during the winter months. If possible, keep good quality hay in front of him around the clock, particularly at night when temperatures are their coldest. If dental problems prevent your horse from eating hay, you can feed hay cubes. To up the calorie intake, grain can be made into a “gruel” when mixed with warm water. A heated meal will help warm your old guy up a bit.

Placing a heater into the water trough or bucket will also provide some warmth, as well as prevent colic since horses do not find cold water palatable and will drink less, whereby setting the stage for an impaction colic.

BLANKETING

Blanketing will keep your horse warm, but it is important that you check under the blanket every day to assess body condition to make sure he is not dropping weight. Blanketing can also be problematic for horses with Cushings disease by allowing fungal growth on the skin. It is very important to regularly inspect your horse to make sure there are no skin problems caused from the blanketing.

Be mindful of the weather and temperature when you turn your horse out. If it is cold, clear and sunny, your blanketed horse would be okay to spend some time outside; however, if it is cold, windy and cloudy with precipitation, it is best to leave him in.

WINTER TURNOUT

Mobility is an issue for an aged horse with arthritis or other lameness issues, who will find it very difficult to navigate over uneven, frozen ruts that lie in wait near pasture gaits and watering troughs. If you notice your horse having difficulty navigating in the pasture, you may want to stall him during the winter, with regular daily in-hand exercise. Also, if your horse has a respiratory problem such as heaves, it is best that he not be turned out in frigid conditions, because the cold air will worsen his condition. Hay should be moistened with water prior to feeding a “heavey” horse to lower dust levels.

Careful and observant attention to your older horse during the winter will bring him through the winter and into spring and another year to enjoy together.

Happy Trails!

By: Darlene M. Cox (kyhomeagain@gmail.com)

Winter-Time Blanketing

Choosing the Best Blanket for your Horse

Here in the Midwest, the winter season has found its way onto our calendars and across our pastures. Blankets provide extra protection to keep your horse warm, dry, and clean during cold, snowy days.

WHEN TO BLANKET

Mom Nature has adequately planned to keep horses warm by providing them with thick, comfy winter coats; however, sometimes blanketing can provide a little more comfort to take the edge off the cold. Blanketing is not necessary for every horse and is dependent upon several factors such as climate, body condition, health, age, coat thickness, and shelter. If your horse is a healthy easy keeper, you may not need to blanket but, if your horse is not in the best body condition (skinny) with a thin coat, a blanket would be greatly appreciated.

TYPES OF BLANKETS

There are many different types and weights of blankets that are constructed to provide different levels of comfort for your horse. The thread count in a blanket is measured in “deniers”. The most durable and tear-resistant blankets will have higher denier counts. The insulation of a blanket is called the “fill”, which is measured in grams. A light/medium fill blanket will have between 100-200 grams and a 300 gram fill is the heavyweight blanket.

Stable blankets, which are lightweight and constructed of nylon and a light insulation layer, can be used to keep your stalled horse warm and clean on a cold night; although, you should not turn your horse out in the pasture wearing it since it is not water proof, unless you place a waterproof sheet under it.

The most durable blankets are the turnout blankets. These blankets are constructed to provide optimal warmth and dryness for your pastured horse. Turn-out blankets are breathable, which means they will not let cold air in but will allow sweat to evaporate from under the blanket. Many features in turn-out blankets allow for more freedom of movement with shoulder gussets and wear pads at the withers to prevent rubbing when your horse frolics around the pasture.

BLANKETING TIPS

You must be responsible when you blanket your horse and check his coat under the blanket often to make sure he remains dry. If he gets wet underneath the blanket, he will become chilled. Remove the blanket and rough up his coat with a dry towel and place a fleece cooler on him, which will expedite the drying of his coat.

Keep an eye on the weather and remove the blanket if temperatures rise above 45 degrees. Prior to removing the blanket, wipe a dryer fabric softener sheet over it to prevent static shock to your horse when you take the blanket off. Trust me, he will appreciate you doing this! After removing the blanket, you can use this time as an opportunity to wash the blanket to remove any dirt and gunk that may have accumulated on it. After removing the blanket, lightly groom your horse to brush off any dirt that may found its way under the blanket.

When spring finally arrives and the blanket comes off for the season, inspect it for wear and tear to determine if it can be cleaned and packed away for the next winter season or if it needs to be replaced.

Happy Trails!

By: Darlene M. Cox (kyhomeagain@gmail.com)

Reverse Auction 101

What is a reverse auction?

Most of us have been to an auction before or watched one on TV. My favorite just happens to be the Barrett-Jackson car auctions which I usually happen across on a lazy Saturday morning. 

The essence of the auction is to bid the price higher. This largely benefits the seller. If they have a great item, chances are, they are bound to make a good deal of money. 

With a reverse auction, the idea is to start at the asking price and gradually lower it until someone purchases the item. The beneficiary in this case tends to be the consumer - YOU!

Our Saddle Auctions

Have you ever had a brand new shirt in your closet with the tags still on it and you just knew you'd never find the right time to wear it? Believe it or not, the same is true for saddles. We carry a huge inventory of saddles (with the tags still on them) which help us deliver them within days of your order instead of the typical 4,6,or 8 week wait to manufacture it. 

That also leads to a massive amount of saddles sitting around the shop! As I write this, there are at least 16 saddles sitting in my office because there just isn't enough space to store any more! (I'm not complaining. I love the smell of leather)

Proof! There are 16 saddles beside my desk!

Our solution? Sell these to our Facebook fans at prices they can't pass up - reverse auction style.

How to Participate

We're planning on running a Facebook auction every business day for the rest of the month (Jan 2013)

How can you get a great saddle at a rock bottom price? 

1. "Like" us on Facebook
2. Sign up for our weekly email so you can see what saddles are coming up that week
3. Find the saddle you want, do your research, and wait patiently for it to go on the block
4. On the auction day, claim your coupon before someone else does! 

Every hour, we will updated the price of the coupon on Facebook. It's a single use coupon, so the person who uses the code first is the one who gets the deal. The idea is to use the coupon before someone else does! 

Send an email to support@horsesaddleshop.com with any questions. We'd be happy to help you out with any of your saddle auction questions. 

Happy auctioning! 

Reverse Auction 101

What is a reverse auction?

Most of us have been to an auction before or watched one on TV. My favorite just happens to be the Barrett-Jackson car auctions which I usually happen across on a lazy Saturday morning. 

The essence of the auction is to bid the price higher. This largely benefits the seller. If they have a great item, chances are, they are bound to make a good deal of money. 

With a reverse auction, the idea is to start at the asking price and gradually lower it until someone purchases the item. The beneficiary in this case tends to be the consumer - YOU!

Our Saddle Auctions

Have you ever had a brand new shirt in your closet with the tags still on it and you just knew you'd never find the right time to wear it? Believe it or not, the same is true for saddles. We carry a huge inventory of saddles (with the tags still on them) which help us deliver them within days of your order instead of the typical 4,6,or 8 week wait to manufacture it. 

That also leads to a massive amount of saddles sitting around the shop! As I write this, there are at least 16 saddles sitting in my office because there just isn't enough space to store any more! (I'm not complaining. I love the smell of leather)

Proof! There are 16 saddles beside my desk!

Our solution? Sell these to our Facebook fans at prices they can't pass up - reverse auction style.

How to Participate

We're planning on running a Facebook auction every business day for the rest of the month (Jan 2013)

How can you get a great saddle at rock bottom price? 

1. "Like" us on Facebook
2. Sign up for our weekly email so you can see what saddles are coming up that week
3. Find the saddle you want, do your research, and wait patiently for it to go on the block
4. On the auction day, claim your coupon before someone else does! 

Every hour, we will updated the price of the coupon on Facebook. It's a single use coupon, so the person who uses the code first is the one who gets the deal. The idea is to use the coupon before someone else does! 

Send an email to support@horsesaddleshop.com with any questions. We'd be happy to help you out with any of your saddle auction questions. 

Happy auctioning! 

Winterizing Your Horse Trailer

With the riding and camping season coming to an end, now is the time to winterize your living quarters horse trailer.

1. Remove items from your cabinets and drawers that may freeze and burst during freezing temperatures.
2. Mice love to snuggle in for the winter and live comfortably in your trailer; therefore, you should take out all food items, paper products, blankets, etc. A lack of food or nest building materials will have them looking elsewhere for their winter accommodations.
3. If you have a refrigerator in your trailer, you should clean it out and leave the door propped open to prevent mildew.
4. Drain residual water from the hot water heater by opening the relief valve and removing the drain plug. Attach a small hose and flush the water tank with clean water to remove any silt build up in the tank.
5. Drain water from the fresh water holding tank.
6. Remove and drain all holding tanks, both gray and black water.
7. Purchase RV-rated (pink) anti-freeze and circulate it through the water pipes and pour it into sink and shower drains, as well as into the toilet bowl and tank.
8. Remove batteries from any appliance that may remain in the trailer, as well as the smoke detector.
9. Remove fire extinguisher to prevent it from freezing.
10. Remove floor mats from the horse box for cleaning and deodorizing. Allow them to dry thoroughly before returning them to the box.
11. Clean and scrub the box floor after removing the mats. Allow the floor to dry completely before returning the mats.
12. Check the flooring for any weak or rotting boards and replace as needed. Also check the underneath side of the flooring and floor supports for weakness and rotting.
13. If you park your trailer on grass or dirt surfaces, roll the tires onto treated lumber that is wider than the width of your tires. This will prevent your tires from dry-rotting.
14. Make sure that propane tanks are turned off.
15. Turn the Power Main to off.
16. Remove and recharge (if needed) the breakaway brake battery and the main cabin battery. Store them in a warm, dry place.
17. Clean and/or replace furnace and air conditioner filters.
18. Use WD-40 on all hinges and locks to prevent them from corroding or locking up.

With the winterization of your horse trailer, you will be ready to hit the road for another season of riding with the arrival of spring.

Happy trails!

By: Darlene M. Cox (kyhomeagain@gmail.com)

Is Your Horse Ready for Winter?

Like it or not, winter is just around the corner. Is your horse ready? Extended cold weather takes its toll on horses given the greater amount of energy required to deal with the cold and a more difficult weather environment.

You may want to have your vet conduct a well horse visit to assess his health prior to winter’s arrival. Have a fecal egg count done on his manure to examine what kind of parasite load he may be carrying and be ready to act if the load is heavy. Parasites will negatively affect your horse’s health at a time when he needs to be in good condition. It is also important to have his teeth checked for any problems that may inhibit eating or digestion. Assess body condition to make sure your horse is carrying an adequate amount of weight. A horse that is too thin will have a difficult time generating energy to keep warm and healthy.

Have your farrier visit to trim feet and assess if anything needs to be addressed with regard to hoof health. If possible, shoes should be pulled to prevent snowball and mud build up that may stress the foot and legs.

Nutritional needs vary depending upon age, health, activity level, and weather conditions. Grazing will be limited during winter months; therefore, it is important that quality hay is provided throughout the day. Horses prefer hay that is clean, fresh, and palatable. Hay should be mold and dust free to protect your horse against illness. Grain, supplements, or ration balancers may also be required based upon the nutritional needs of your horse and his body condition going into winter. Horses drink less water in the winter months, most likely because they do not like to drink ice cold water. Placing a submerged heater in a trough or using a heated bucket will keep water at a more palatable and desirable temperature. Feeding free choice minerals or a mineral block will also encourage your horse to drink.

Covered shelter will allow your horse added comfort from winter elements such as freezing rain, but turnout time is very important to allow for exercise and fresh air. Stalls should be kept clean to prevent ammonia build-up in soiled bedding from causing breathing problems for our horses.

Exercise is required during the winter to keep your horse in a good toned body condition. While we may not like the cold much either, we need to make an effort to keep some semblance or a working routine for our horses. Even during inclimate weather, we can provide exercise even if it is as simple as walking our horse up and down the barn aisle.

A healthy horse going into winter will be a healthy horse come spring when you are ready to hit the trails again.

Happy trails!

By: Darlene M. Cox (kyhomeagain@gmail.com)