Measuring for Horse Blankets

1. Using a string, have a helper hold the end in the center of your horse's chest where his neck and chest meet. Pull the string around the side (covering the largest parts of the shoulder and stomach) and end in the center of the horse's rump area.
   
   
2. Mark the length of the string with a marker (or cut it if you don't mind sacrificing your string). We'll measure this in the next step.
   
   
3. Lay the string flat and use a tape measure to find the length. The length in inches is the size of horse sheet or blanket your horse will need. If the measurement falls between two sizes, round up to the larger size for the best fit.
   
   NOTE: if you own a fabric style tape measure that is long enough for this task, skip the string and use the flexible tape measure! But don't cut it... that would be bad!

Deworming Dos & Don'ts

The biggest mistake made deworming a horse is using only ivermectin wormers. If you only use one type of chemical class your horse can become tolerant, and your worming schedule will be ineffective. Below is a great chart used to describe the different Drug classes for wormers and why they are used.

This chart was made by HorseSaddleShop for informative purposes only. You always want to consult your Veterinarian before treating your horse. In some cases, your Vet will come up with a rotational worming schedule directed especially for your born, as they will know the risks for parasites in your area.

Some prevention to parasites can be made by cleaning manure out of pasture frequently, as well as feeding your horses from a feeder rather than the ground.

Here are some factors that can result in a higher risk of parasites for your horse:

Horses being pastured in a dry lot (dirt lot)

Sharing pastures with cattle, goats or sheep

Hight Pasture Population ( Having one or more horses per acre of land)

Checking the Fit of your Saddle

Goal of Fit: Bar Contact to the Horse’s Back

The bars protect the spine and distribute pressure from the rider’s weight evenly across the horse’s back. Larger riders and performance saddles need longer bars to give more contact area to distribute pressure.

Checking the Fit of your Saddle

The tree has two main factors that determine the fit; gullet width and bar angle. The combination of the two factors makes for slight variations in the saddle industry. There are not any standards or definitions of specific tree sizes, but each saddle builder provides a description to give an idea of the size of horse the tree should fit.

Gullet Width or sometimes referred to as bar spread is the measurement 2 inches below the narrowest part of the gullet, even with the side conchos. This is the most common factor because we can measure it more easily. When measuring, make sure you’re underneath the bars, not in front of the saddle.

A narrow gullet width will keep the saddle perched higher. A wider spread will drop further down on the horse’s back.

Bar Angle is not often measured but the angle needs to be as close to the angle of the horse’s back as possible.

A narrow or tight angle will make contact at the bottom of the bars, not the top. A wide angle will make contact at the top of the bars, not the bottom.

Approximate degrees (+/- 3 degrees):
86 degrees - Normal/Narrow Angle
90 degrees - Wide Angle
94 degrees – Extra Wide Angle

Other Factors

Bar Flare: The bars will flare to some degree in the front and back of the saddle. The front will flare away from the horse to allow for shoulder movement. The back may flare to keep the bars from digging into the croup.

Bar Slope or Rock: The curve of the horse’s topline should be as close to the shape of the bars as possible.

Bridging: When the bars make contact in the front and back of the saddle, but not in the middle. It causes what looks like a bridge across the dip in the back. The weight of the rider is carried only at the ends of the bars causing a lot of pressure that can result in white hairs and sores.

Rock: when the bars bend more than the horse needs. This is the opposite of bridging and less common. The saddle may tip forward, though that could also be from a saddle that is too wide in the front. Rock is found on horses with a flat toppling.

Tree Sizes

Semi-QH: Semi Quarter Horse can be referred to as Medium, Regular, or QH bars. This tree size has a higher pitch or angle to the bars. It’s for the horse with a more defined wither. (1/2 Arab, Appendix, Thoroughbred, etc).

Full-QH: Full Quarter Horse or FQHB can be referred to as Wide (usually 7” gullet). The angle is flatter compared to the Semi-QH tree. This is for horses with a broad shoulder. They’re considered mutton withered or a less pronounced wither. (Quarter Horse, Paint, etc)

Arabian: Have a narrow front (usually 6.5" – 6.75" gullet) similar to the Semi-QH bar but the back of the saddle has a flatter pitch angle. So the saddle goes from a little narrow in the front to flatter or wider in the back. Can sometimes fit non-Arabian horses.

Gaited: The gaited tree has a higher gullet to accommodate the higher withered horses. They usually have a wider or flared front to allow for shoulder movement. The tree narrows toward the back where the bars have more pitch. The gaited saddles usually have more rock to the bars. (Tennessee Walker, Fox Trotter, etc)

Haflinger: Short backed, mutton withered – these trees have a flatter pitch to the bar angle and very little rock. Usually a 7.5" gullet, they’re often used on other large horses needing an extra wide tree.

Draft: Usually an 8" gullet to fit on large draft horses.

Caring for my Mare & Foal

It is very important to put your mare on a good diet with all the essential nutrients she needs to stay healthy, I feed a high protein feed. Lots of hay and water are also necessary, after all she is eating/drinking for two! A few weeks prior to foaling I like to transition the mare to new pasture/pen as it has a large stall for her to foal in. Changing pastures a few weeks before pregnancy helps keep stress levels down and get the mare comfortable with her new area.

When my mare starts showing signs that she may be ready to foal soon, I wrap her tail so it is out of the way. I also change her bedding from sawdust to a thick heavy bedding of straw, as it is safer for the mare and foal during labor. After the foal is a few hours old I begin to start bonding with foal. Keeping down a number of people in the stall help keep your mare and foal calm, too many people will make her nervous.

To keep Mare and Foal comfortable and safe I keep all animals away from mare and foal and let them have a stall pasture all to themselves. Now that the foal is born and healthy it is time to come up with a name! I like to watch behavior and pay attention to physical characteristics to help me come up with a name.

- Rachael

Abscesses: The common cold for horses

The common cold for humans is the horse equivalent of an abscess. Some horses are more prone to them than others. I have a grulla paint mare that I have owned for just over a year, and in that course of a year, she has had a few abscesses. I have gotten pretty good in treating these things so I am going to share a little about an abscess and what some symptoms and treatment options are.

To start off if you don’t know what an abscess is, it occurs when bacteria invades the horse's hoof and is most noticeable when it infects the sensitive parts of the foot. They can cause serious damage if left untreated. What are some symptoms of an abscess you may ask? Well, the most common and noticed symptom is lameness and limping. This is in result to the invasion of the bacteria into the sensitive spots in the hoof.

However, there are a few more things that you can pick up on that are preliminary to an abscess. These include but are not limited to: fever, swelling of the leg and hoof area, sensitivity to hoof picks, and touch. If you notice your horse displaying any of these behaviors they probably have an abscess.

Fear not! These can be treated fairly easy. The easiest and fastest relief for your horse from an abscess is to have your vet or farrier come out and find the location of the infection of it has not broken through and trim a hole/path for the infection to drain out. However, some abscesses erupt and break through on their own, not needing to have a hole/path cut to drain them.

Once it is broke through and draining it is important to keep this area clean. Some people soak the foot in Epsom salts this is known the draw the infection out of the foot. This can be easily done by purchasing a soaking boot from your local tack store. These make the soaking process so much easier! Have you ever tried to get your horse to put its foot into a bucket to soak? Well, good luck, that’s a job in itself! Trust me the soak boots are a simple solution to a bigger potential headache.

What causes abscess and how can they be prevented? Well, the most common cause is an irritation to the sole of the foot most commonly from a stone or something of that nature getting stuck in the foot. It can even be as simple as a bruise from a stone/rock from trail riding. Aside from that, another common cause is moisture whether there be too much or too little moisture. Finally, dirty stalls are horrible for horse’s feet and can bring about abscesses.

If you pay attention and do your best to maintain healthy hoof care you should be fine. However, if your horse does get an abscess, just be sure to treat it accordingly and get it taken care of quickly.

Taking Care of your Antique Horse

Our horses are part of our family, joining us at a young age and becoming an equine senior citizen as a cherished family member. Just as your horse has taken care of you along many miles of trail riding, it is now your turn to take care of him in his twilight years.

NUTRITION AND HEALTH

Nutrition and health care needs for an elderly horse are different than those of a younger horse. You can place an elderly horse in a wonderfully lush pasture; however, if he is smooth mouthed or has missing teeth, he cannot properly chew the grass to get the optimal nutrition from it. Also, improperly chewed grass can cause impaction colic in older horses. Hay cubes may be the best thing to feed your elder horse because the fibers are smaller than those in regular hay and can be digested by an aging system. Along with the hay cubes, other smaller fiber foods such as beet pulp, soy husks, and bran can be included in your horse’s diet. Pelleted senior feeds can be incorporated into the diet to aid in easier digestion and absorption. All of the above items can be soaked in water for those horses that are pretty much unable to chew anything due to many missing teeth.

Always make sure there is an ample supply of clean, fresh water for your horse, which helps prevent colic. Flavoring the water and keeping a salt block available for your horse will encourage more water consumption.

KEEP THEM ACTIVE

Exercise is important for your older horse, both for his mental and physical health. Continue riding your horse if there are no health concerns preventing it. As long as he is healthy, a horse can be ridden through his 20’s and even into his 30’s. Be mindful not to over-tax him with a work out that is too strenuous.  Keep in mind that you want to keep him in good tone and body condition in correlation with his age and not with how he looked as a six-year old.  A leisurely ride down the road and back is better than having him stand in his stall or hang out in the pasture. This will exercise his body and his mind. Horses always enjoy having a job.  If riding your miserly mount is not an option, you can hand walk him 20-30 minutes two or three times a week to allow for some exercise.

It is very important to keep our elderly horses properly vaccinated for common equine diseases. Advanced age will weaken and suppress the immune system, making our senior equines more susceptible to illness.  Dental care is equally important to take care of any teeth that may be remaining.

BE OBSERVANT

Be keenly observant of tell-tale signs that there may be some underlying problem with your elderly horse. Watch out for markedly increased water consumption and frequent urination, gait irregularities lameness or other mobility issues;   change in shape, color, and smell of manure; retention of winter coat. All of these things may indicate a potential health problem for your geriatric guy.

Older horses are easily stressed during colder weather, most likely because they are not able to process hay as easily through their hind gut, which is how they generate heat; or because they are not in optimal body condition. You may want to blanket him during the coldest of days and nights to make sure he is warm.

As hard as it is to even think about, be aware of when your trusted treasure and old friend is reaching the end of his journey. While it is never easy to say goodbye to a dearly loved horse, it is even worse to keep him languishing in poor health. Discuss with your veterinarian when the appropriate time may be to help your horse with his journey across the Rainbow Bridge.

Happy trails!

By: Darlene M. Cox (kyhomeagain@gmail.com)

Winter Care for your Aged Horse

At the age of 51, I can attest that winter seems to be longer and colder than those of my younger years. Our aged horses most likely look at winter this very same way. The cold months of winter are the most difficult for an aged horse, particularly one that may also have underlying chronic health conditions such as holding a healthy weight, arthritis, respiratory issues or dental problems.

PREPARING FOR WINTER

It is best to prepare your horse in advance for the upcoming winter season, and it is very important to insure he is coming into the winter months at the best possible health, body condition and weight. It is very difficult for an aged horse to gain weight during winter due to the amount of energy required for him to keep warm; however, with consistent attention and effort you may be able to keep his weight steady.

You must keep your elderly horse warm during winter to prevent him from becoming chilled to the point of shivering. An enormous amount of energy is expended when a horse shivers to keep warm, and he will drop a lot of weight because of this.

COUNTING CALORIES

The most important tool in combating the chill of winter is nutrition. A horse expends a lot of energy trying to stay warm and this energy must be re-kindled with ample amounts of food. Calorie intake not only provides energy, but also builds fat which puts on a protective layer against cold weather. Hay, which metabolizes more slowly through the digestive process and provides the best heat, is the most important food product for your elderly horse during the winter months. If possible, keep good quality hay in front of him around the clock, particularly at night when temperatures are their coldest. If dental problems prevent your horse from eating hay, you can feed hay cubes. To up the calorie intake, grain can be made into a “gruel” when mixed with warm water. A heated meal will help warm your old guy up a bit.

Placing a heater into the water trough or bucket will also provide some warmth, as well as prevent colic since horses do not find cold water palatable and will drink less, whereby setting the stage for an impaction colic.

BLANKETING

Blanketing will keep your horse warm, but it is important that you check under the blanket every day to assess body condition to make sure he is not dropping weight. Blanketing can also be problematic for horses with Cushings disease by allowing fungal growth on the skin. It is very important to regularly inspect your horse to make sure there are no skin problems caused from the blanketing.

Be mindful of the weather and temperature when you turn your horse out. If it is cold, clear and sunny, your blanketed horse would be okay to spend some time outside; however, if it is cold, windy and cloudy with precipitation, it is best to leave him in.

WINTER TURNOUT

Mobility is an issue for an aged horse with arthritis or other lameness issues, who will find it very difficult to navigate over uneven, frozen ruts that lie in wait near pasture gaits and watering troughs. If you notice your horse having difficulty navigating in the pasture, you may want to stall him during the winter, with regular daily in-hand exercise. Also, if your horse has a respiratory problem such as heaves, it is best that he not be turned out in frigid conditions, because the cold air will worsen his condition. Hay should be moistened with water prior to feeding a “heavey” horse to lower dust levels.

Careful and observant attention to your older horse during the winter will bring him through the winter and into spring and another year to enjoy together.

Happy Trails!

By: Darlene M. Cox (kyhomeagain@gmail.com)

Winter-Time Blanketing

Choosing the Best Blanket for your Horse

Here in the Midwest, the winter season has found its way onto our calendars and across our pastures. Blankets provide extra protection to keep your horse warm, dry, and clean during cold, snowy days.

WHEN TO BLANKET

Mom Nature has adequately planned to keep horses warm by providing them with thick, comfy winter coats; however, sometimes blanketing can provide a little more comfort to take the edge off the cold. Blanketing is not necessary for every horse and is dependent upon several factors such as climate, body condition, health, age, coat thickness, and shelter. If your horse is a healthy easy keeper, you may not need to blanket but, if your horse is not in the best body condition (skinny) with a thin coat, a blanket would be greatly appreciated.

TYPES OF BLANKETS

There are many different types and weights of blankets that are constructed to provide different levels of comfort for your horse. The thread count in a blanket is measured in “deniers”. The most durable and tear-resistant blankets will have higher denier counts. The insulation of a blanket is called the “fill”, which is measured in grams. A light/medium fill blanket will have between 100-200 grams and a 300 gram fill is the heavyweight blanket.

Stable blankets, which are lightweight and constructed of nylon and a light insulation layer, can be used to keep your stalled horse warm and clean on a cold night; although, you should not turn your horse out in the pasture wearing it since it is not water proof, unless you place a waterproof sheet under it.

The most durable blankets are the turnout blankets. These blankets are constructed to provide optimal warmth and dryness for your pastured horse. Turn-out blankets are breathable, which means they will not let cold air in but will allow sweat to evaporate from under the blanket. Many features in turn-out blankets allow for more freedom of movement with shoulder gussets and wear pads at the withers to prevent rubbing when your horse frolics around the pasture.

BLANKETING TIPS

You must be responsible when you blanket your horse and check his coat under the blanket often to make sure he remains dry. If he gets wet underneath the blanket, he will become chilled. Remove the blanket and rough up his coat with a dry towel and place a fleece cooler on him, which will expedite the drying of his coat.

Keep an eye on the weather and remove the blanket if temperatures rise above 45 degrees. Prior to removing the blanket, wipe a dryer fabric softener sheet over it to prevent static shock to your horse when you take the blanket off. Trust me, he will appreciate you doing this! After removing the blanket, you can use this time as an opportunity to wash the blanket to remove any dirt and gunk that may have accumulated on it. After removing the blanket, lightly groom your horse to brush off any dirt that may found its way under the blanket.

When spring finally arrives and the blanket comes off for the season, inspect it for wear and tear to determine if it can be cleaned and packed away for the next winter season or if it needs to be replaced.

Happy Trails!

By: Darlene M. Cox (kyhomeagain@gmail.com)

A Day at the Spa: Do-It-Yourself Massage Therapy for Your Horse

May I have a show of hands, please, from those who have basked in the relaxing afterglow following a massage? Just as we enjoy the wonderful results of a massage, our horses can also benefit from massage therapy (also known as equine therapy).

While a certified equine massage therapist can provide the best in professional therapy, you can incorporate some basic massage methods to help soothe aching muscles and tension your horse may have. It is always important to keep safety in mind when working with your horse and to be ever vigilant of his body language.

Begin by brushing your horse, which is in itself, a form of massage that will begin to relax him. After brushing while standing to one side of your horse, use your finger tips to work along the back just off the spine, pressing deeply and moving your fingers in a circular motion. Your horse will let you know how the massage is feeling. If he has a soft, sleepy look in his eyes, he is enjoying it. If he moves away from the pressure or quivers his skin, you may be kneading a tender spot. Make a note of that area, and either lighten your pressure or move off it all together. Once you work one side of the back, move to the other side. You always want to balance your massage by working like areas in succession. This will keep your massage balanced.

After the spine area is finished, move on to the large muscle group in the rump and down the rear legs. Lighten the pressure on the legs and for the lower leg, wrap your hand around the leg and apply gentle pressure on the inside and outside of the leg. Be prepared to move out of the way if you happen to encounter a tender area that may cause your horse to kick.

Move from the rump to the neck, shoulder and chest areas. For the neck, begin by gently squeezing the crest of the neck, moving from the poll to the withers. Your horse will drop his head if the pressure feels good and will raise his head and try to step away if there is a tender spot. Using your finger tips once again just below the crest, apply deep pressure from the neck to the shoulder, and then from shoulder to chest. Repeat light pressure down the front legs, as applied to the hind legs.

Once the massage is done, your horse may well be a puddle at your feet, but I guarantee you he will look forward to his next massage session.

Happy trails!

By: Darlene M. Cox (kyhomeagain@gmail.com)

As the Worm Turns: Managing Parasite Burdens in Your Horse

Most who own horses are aware that horses play host to a varying degree of parasite burdens. Life for the parasite living inside your horse is pretty comfy. Its needs are being met as the horse provides the amenities of warmth and fine dining, which allow the parasite to grow and develop, while causing problems for your horse. The life of a parasite is cyclical and its existence relies on its ability to perpetuate its life cycle by living and reproducing in the horse, with eggs being expelled outside in dung, and reinfesting the horse again as the horse grazes.

While this cycle cannot be stopped, it can at least be slowed down and effectively controlled with a two-prong approach of smart farm management practices and fecal egg count monitoring, with use of deworming agents when parasite load numbers require intervention. Many horse owners maintain a regular de-worming program by administering deworming agents on a six-to-eight-week schedule or via a daily feed-through supplement; however, it has recently been suggested that parasites are becoming resistant to these medications, and it may be best to use them only when parasite numbers are high.

Fecal egg count monitoring for each horse will allow you to tailor treatment for each individual horse. Not every horse will carry the same parasite load, so it only stands to reason that treatment regimens should be administered based upon the amount of infestation maintained by each horse. You would not want to treat a horse with a low count as you would one with a high count. Treatment should not be considered a "one treatment program fits all" regimen.

Probably the most important weapon, and generally the one easily overlooked, in parasite management is using wise farm management practices. The beginning life cycle of parasites begins outside the horse, when egg infested dung lies on the ground and horses graze near the dung ingesting the parasite once again. Parasite numbers on the ground can be greatly reduced by removing dung from the pasture or by breaking the piles up and exposing the inside of the pile to sunlight. For larger pastures, mowing or dragging the will break these piles up. If you arm yourself with a wheelbarrow, utility trailer, and a stall cleaning fork, you can pick up dung piles in smaller pastures.

While it may be difficult for many seasoned horse owners to back away from using the repetitive deworming program, you may want to chat with your veterinarian about fecal egg count/parasite load based treatment, just to see if this new regimen may be best for your horse.

Happy trails!

By: Darlene M. Cox (darlc5@aol.com)

Come and Get It: Feeding Your Horse while Trail Riding or Camping

by: Darlene M. Cox (darlc5@aol.com)

Much time and planning goes into getting ready for a trail riding and camping adventure, whether it is a short weekend trip or one that encompasses a week of fun-filled saddle time and relaxation. Of all the important things to pack along for your trip, food ranks right there at the top of the list. Nothing can beat the mouth-watering aromas of a meal being prepared over an open campfire; unless you ask your horse what he might like to eat.

Following are some food-for-thought suggestions as you plan for feeding your horse while trail riding and camping:

· Feed your horse the same brand of grain and/or type of hay he is used to eating at home. Do not opt for a higher protein grain or straight alfalfa hay if your horse is not used to eating such at home.

· Estimate the time that you will be away from home to determine how many feedings of grain that you will need to have on hand. Add at least two feedings to this number just in case your return home is delayed due to some unforeseen reason.

· If possible, pre-measure grain servings and place into individual, large zip lock bags for easy serving while in camp. This will save you time and trouble, particularly when feeding during night time hours. With pre-measured portions, your horse is guaranteed to receive the same amount of grain he would get if at home. Never feed your horse more grain because you equate his working harder and longer with an increased need for more grain. Feeding more grain than your horse is used to eating may cause an unwanted bout of colic, impaction, or tying-up (azoturia).

· When determining the amount of hay you need to take, add one bale to the total to allow for extra portions (always okay to feed more hay) as well as allow for the possibility that any particular bale may have a portion that is not palatable (moldy, dusty, dirty, etc.). Keep your baling string in situ and simply tie up any unused bale portion for the return trip home.

· Morning feedings should be done one to two hours before you saddle up and hit the trail. Think about how you would feel if you had to work out right after eating your breakfast. Allow some time for digestion to begin before saddling up. Give your horse time to eat undisturbed. Don’t couple feeding time with grooming or riding prep.

· After an end of a day’s ride, your horse should be given adequate time to cool down and relax before being fed. Offer cool water, but never feed an overly exerted, hot horse as you risk a colic episode. Wait at least an hour or two before feeding grain/hay.

· If you are riding with a group and your horse is picketed, tied, or stalled next to the horses' of others horses with whom you will be riding, try to orchestrate feeding around the same time. This will eliminate unneeded stress on those horses that have to hungrily stand and mouth-wateringly watch as other horses eat. Position hay bags and feed buckets out of reach from other horses to prevent territorial/food protection behaviors. Canvas feed bags are ideal to use in camping situations as they are easy to fill and strap onto your horse and will keep other horses from nosing around to scavenge extra grain.

A little time and effort in planning meals for your horse while trail riding and camping will make sure he is a happy camper, too!

Happy trails!

What's up, Doc? Choosing a Veterinarian for Your Horse

This article is from our March newsletter, which you can view here:

By: Darlene M. Cox, darlc5@aol.com

Anyone who has owned a horse will need to obtain the services of a veterinarian at some point, whether it is simply for vaccination administration or for an emergency call to stitch a cut or something much more serious. One of the most important responsibilities we have as horse owners is to choose wisely those who provide medical services to our equine partners. For the well being of your horse, it is good to have identified a veterinarian as the "vet of record" before the need arises to place an emergency call, but how do you select a vet that is a good match for your horse or your ideals as a horse owner? You can "vet" the veterinarians in your area by conducting phone interviews with them and asking pertinent questions about their practice and their philosophy to treatment. These short interviews and the information gleaned from them can be the beginning basis toward choosing your veterinarian.

Veterinarians come in all ages, shapes, sizes, genders, personalities, and specialties. Several factors must be considered when making your selection. While expense may most likely be the first thought that comes to mind, the most important criterion is the availability of your veterinarian to respond to an emergency call. Throughout the years, I have used several veterinarians whose fees have been roughly in the same ballpark, give or take a couple hundred dollars, so on a cost comparative basis, it pretty much pans out. Availability can be broken down to two factors: how close the veterinarian's practice is to your farm and how large is his clientele. A more experienced veterinarian may also have more clients, whereby response time may be slower than that of a less-experienced, yet quite capable, vet. Younger vets, those establishing their client base and most recently out of veterinarian school, will be on top of their game with the latest treatment protocols. Don't rule out a younger, less experienced vet simply because they have not yet set roots down in an area.

Personality and gender may also play a role in making a better choice. If you are someone who is inquisitive and wants to know everything that the vet is doing to your horse, then you would be better matched with a veterinarian that is comfortable with taking the time to answer your questions, rather than one who quickly, efficiently, and quietly renders care to your horse and then just as quickly leaves for their next appointment, leaving you behind with unanswered questions. With regard to gender, you may prefer the care of a woman over a man or vice versa. Some feel a female veterinarian handles their horse more gently and patiently than a male vet. Others may recognize the ability of a male vet to better control your horse during treatment. Regardless of your vet's gender, professionalism and competency should be recognizable traits, and a vet possessing them will always keep the best interests of your horse (his patient) and you (his client) in keen focus.

Keep in mind that, at the end of the day, your vet works for you. You are entrusting the well being of your beloved horse under his care, so making an informed decision in choosing the best vet is very important.

Happy trails!

Understanding the Needs of a Rescued Horse

This article is from our October monthly newsletter. Go to http://www.horsesaddleshop.com/ to get it straight to your inbox.

By: Darlene M. Cox, darlc5@aol.com

When we fall upon hard economic times, our animals are the first casualties to suffer. Nothing is more evident of this than the vast number of horses that are being surrendered to horse rescue organizations or worse yet, neglected horses that have yet to be seized or surrendered.

Many of us who love horses have opened our hearts and barns to rehab a neglected horse. It is important that the needs of a rescued horse be understood because we may cause more harm than good. A neglected horse may present with many issues that need to be dealt with: starvation, bad teeth, over-grown feet, skin fungus, parasite infestations, etc. Each one of these afflictions can be cured, but you cannot tackle them all at once.

Veterinarian Assistance:

Contact your vet to examine and assess the rescued horse and to develop a rehabilitation plan. Also have your veterinarian provide you with a letter of care, which defines your role in rehabilitating the horse back to health and indicating that the horse is under veterinarian care. This letter may well protect you from the auspices of a concerned animal lover who happens to spot a malnourished horse on your property and reports it to animal cruelty organizations.

Feeding:

Our first thought upon seeing an emaciated, skeletal horse is to feed it; however, you cannot feed a rescued horse like you would a healthy horse. Keep in mind that it has taken this horse weeks if not months to deteriorate to such a body condition. His body has effectively been consuming itself in its quest for nourishment. If you immediately begin feeding grain and large quantities of hay, you will most likely cause a colic episode caused from impaction. This is because the horse's body is still in "starvation" mode. Rather, you have to change the body's way of thinking, moving it from "starvation" mode to "nourishment" mode. You can do this by first re-introducing clean grass hay or an alfalfa/grass hay mix. Feed about a pound of hay every three to four hours for the first three days. If the horse tolerates this feeding with no incidence of diarrhea or incidence of colic, you can gradually increase the amount of hay fed and decrease the number of feedings. By day number 7 and through day 13, you should be feeding around 3 to 4 pounds of hay every 6 to 8 hours, which totals around 12 to 13 pounds of hay each day. Again, if the horse is tolerating this amount of hay, you can offer free choice hay on day 14 on.

Grain should not be fed until the third week of rehabilitation and then only in small amounts (one handful) twice a day. Low protein grains (nothing higher than 12%) should be fed. As with hay, grain should be slowly increased over time; however, for grain this window of time is 30 days before arriving at a normal sized feeding, which should never exceed 5 pounds of grain.

Worming and Teeth Floating:

After a month of TLC and feeding as stated above, your rescued horse may be well enough to worm. Work with your veterinarian for the worming method that is best for your horse. Half-dose wormings may be called for to avoid problems caused from a large parasite load kill off.

If it is warranted, the horse's teeth can also be floated at this time.

Hoof Care:

Provided the horse can balance itself, you can treat thrush or other fungal infections of the hoof shortly after rescue. Trimming should wait until the horse is stronger. Overgrown hooves are best addressed by trimming a little at a time to prevent the horse's feet from becoming sore.

Vaccinations:

Vaccinations should not be given until the rehabilitated horse is well on the mend and has put most of its weight back on.

Rehabilitating a horse can be a long process, but you will find nothing more rewarding than knowing you have given him the opportunity to live and continue his days in good health.

Happy trails!

Answering a Cast(ing) Call

By Darlene M. Cox

As a horse owner, one circumstance you will most likely encounter will be assisting your horse when he becomes ‘cast’, which means when he has laid down in some fashion and is unable to get his feet under him in order to stand.

A horse can be severely injured and even die if he lays cast for a long period of time.

Horses are not designed to lie down for a long period of time and will have difficulty breathing if cast very long. Weight and the physical make up of his body will put a lot of pressure on his lungs causing suffocation. A horse may also twist a gut when thrashing around trying to free him. Cuts and abrasions may also be sustained from his struggles.

Casting situations may present themselves in a variety of ways. A stalled horse may find himself cast when he lies down and rolls. This most often will occur in stalls with dirt floors that have a dip or swale in them. The horse’s back will be in the depression with his hind feet against the wall. A similar scenario can happen in a paddock or field, with the horse finding his legs cast under a fence railing or through the wire mesh. Occasionally, a horse will find himself cast in a field when he lies down on an incline with his head pointing downhill and feet uphill. I’ve most often seen field casting in mares heavy in foal and older arthritic horses. I’ve even seen a horse cast in a trailer.

Depending upon the horse, this can be a pretty scary situation, both for the horse and his owner. Desensitizing your horse to having his feet entangled or held down by something will be valuable training if he finds himself cast, as he will remain calm until help arrives to free him from the predicament.

Don’t panic if you find your horse cast. Assess the situation before going in and trying to free up your horse. If your horse is in a panic and is thrashing his legs wildly, do not get around his feet, as you could be seriously injured. Cover his eyes with something (e.g., a towel), as this will be somewhat calming, and speak softly. In some casting situations, moving the horse’s head and shoulders will be enough for him to get his feet under him and allow him to stand. For others, it may be necessary to pull a leg or two around. Do not directly approach your horse’s legs. Instead, it is best to approach your horse from behind his back and loop a rope around the fetlock of the leg that is against the ground (or wall). Occasionally, you may need to loop ropes around both the front and rear ground-sided legs. Do not tie the rope. The loop will prevent the horse from injury as he struggles to stand or if he becomes more panicky. A tied rope may tighten causing injury or your horse may become further entangled in the rope whereby exacerbating the problem and causing additional panic. Once the loop(s) are in place, simply pull the horse over and away from the object that may be casting him. Step back quickly after you have rolled the horse free, as he will be in a hurry to stand.

Once your horse is standing and has calmed down, assess him for any injury that may have occurred from any struggles while cast. Pay particularly close attention to the heel bulbs, coronet bands, fetlocks, pasterns, knees, and hocks. Check for cuts, abrasions, and swelling.

I hope this article will be helpful to you if you answer your cast(ing) call.

Happy Trails!

Foal Watch: The Signs of Foaling

By Darlene M. Cox

Many of us who have owned broodmares can attest that there are certain signs that indicate foaling time is near. These signs most generally will fit into a time frame ranging from weeks, days, and hours to foaling.

It is best to start out with a general knowledge of when a mare was bred. Foaling is most likely to occur when a pregnancy reaches the gestational age between 320 and 370 days. Some folks may believe their mare is overdue once she reaches 345 days, with day 340 or 341 being the mean average. Remember that the gestational clock is run by the foal's internal battery, which will induce labor once the foal has adequately and sufficiently developed in utero.

Impending birth signs and their time span prior to foaling are estimated as follows:

• 2 to 6 weeks - the mare's teats and udder will begin to swell and enlarge. Sometimes (in maiden mares, particularly) the udder and teats may swell and recede a couple of times. I've never noticed this occurring with established broodmares.
  
• 1 week to 2 weeks - The croup muscles around the tail dock and vulva of the mare will begin to relax and feel "spongey." The vulva may appear swollen when it is relaxed.
  
• 4 to 6 days - The mare's udder will fill with milk and the teats will become engorged.
  
• 2 to 4 days - Waxing (leaking or streaming of colostrum) will form on the teats.
  
• Hours to minutes - The mare will appear agitated and restless, even colicky-acting. She may bite or kick at her sides, or lay down repeatedly. Sweating may be obvious.

These signs, in their entirety, may or may not be exhibited by all mares. Most particularly of these are waxing and milk engorgement. Some mares do not wax at all and may not show signs of milk engorgement until shortly before birth.

Of particular noteworthiness is how each mare individually exhibits these signs. The impending birth signs a maiden broodmare exhibits will most likely stay with her throughout her breeding career. Interestingly, a mare will tend to deliver around the same timeframe, give or take an hour or two.

For those who are awaiting new arrivals this spring, good luck to you during your foal watch. I hope you are able to be witness to such a splendid event.

Happy Trails!

Think Before You Dose

By Darlene M. Cox

It is interesting how we horse lovers and owners can equate human-related health incidents into equine-related health issues. Recently, my daughter had a throat infection for which the doctor did not prescribe antibiotics, as he thought the infection was viral. Viral infections, caused by viruses, do not respond to antibiotics as these medications are explicitly used to combat bacterial infections.

While it may seem proactive to treat acute illness with antibiotics, such treatment may be contributing to a greater harm – the development of super germs that are antibiotic resistant. This resistance occurs when the bacteria changes its metabolic form making it impossible for the antibiotic to be effective in weakening or killing the bacteria allowing the horse’s natural immune system to battle it .

Have there been times when you may have self-diagnosed your horse and placed him on antibiotics you had in your tack room medical box? However, is this the right antibiotic to use, and is it the right dose? With the growing misuse and over-prescribing of antibiotics, more resistant strains of bacteria are developing. Such resistant strains can be very difficult to treat as the majority of antibiotics are not effective against them; therefore, it is important that antibiotics be prescribed by a veterinarian who has examined your horse and can determine which specific drug, if any, is best suited to treat the infection. The best way to determine what organism is the culprit in an infection is to culture it.

Antibiotic use can also cause problems of their own: pain, swelling, and abscess at an injection site, diarrhea in young horses, and allergic reactions to certain drugs are the most obvious problems that come to my mind. While these medications are greatly effective, it is best they be prescribed by your veterinarian.

Proper use of antibiotics will ensure effective and successful treatment of many bacterial infections and will most importantly abate the creation of additional super germs that are threatening not only our horses, but also we humans.

Happy trails!

Leading a Horse To Water: Prevention of Dehydration while Trail Riding

By Darlene Cox

One of the most important requirements of your horse during trail riding is keeping him hydrated. Dehydration may lead to your horse to a bout of colic, tying-up (azoturia), or heat stroke. Dehydration severities can range from mild to life threatening, or even death. Maintaining the proper balance of water and electrolytes for your horse is imperative to his health and your peace of mind. There is no fear greater to any horseman than to be miles out on a trail and have your horse in peril of dying.

Hydration needs of your horse while trail riding are different than when he is at home relaxing in his pasture. Traveling and trail riding are stressful and you may find your horse refusing to drink while on the road, on the trail, or in camp. There may be many factors in the equation that keeps your horse from drinking: the water may not taste the same; he horse is too excited with his new surroundings and will not be calm enough to drink; he may be overheated; or he may have an imbalance in electrolytes.

While riding, we should be ever vigilant of our horse's hydration, and there are several ways that you can test to make sure he is hydrated:

• Skin pinch test - Pinch the skin over the point of the shoulder. If your horse if fully hydrated, his skin will pop back immediately. However, the skin will remain tented (pinched up) the more dehydrated a horse becomes.

• Capillary refill test - Press your thumb against your horse's upper gums. Once you remove it, count the seconds it takes for the area to return to the same color (the depressed area will appear white right after you remove your thumb). It is best to have a baseline number in mind taken at a time when you knew your horse to be fully hydrated. The longer it takes for the capillaries to refill, the more dehydrated your horse is.

• Mucous membrane test of inner eye lid and gums - Observe a baseline color of gums and inner eye lid. This can probably range from pink to a pinkish-yellowish color. Gums should be moist. If the color is dark red, then your horse is dehydrated. Again, you are looking for a deviation in color from the baseline.

• Jugular vein refill test - Squeeze off the jugular vein for a moment before allowing it to refill. Count the elapsed time before refill. Again, having a baseline reading is important.

• Gut sounds - If you are proficient with the use of a stethoscope, you can listen to the upper and lower gut sounds to determine hydration. Obtain a baseline reading first. Reduced gut sounds are indicative of dehydration.

There are several steps that we as responsible horse owners can take to insure that our horse is adequately hydrated during trail riding.

• Introduce your horse to electrolytes or other flavorings (Kool-aid, Gatorade, etc.) in his water several days prior to trail riding. This will get your horse used to the taste of the electrolytes and/or flavoring additives, and he will not hesitate to drink them while on the trail ride. Electrolytes will generally stimulate a horse to drink because they are salty. If your horse does not like the taste of the electrolytes or flavorings, bring along a small salt block or add salt to his feed while in camp to encourage drinking.

• If possible, bring water from home and offer to your horse during rest breaks while trailering. Some horses will not drink water from different sources, because it tastes different. However, bringing along the water that he is used to may prompt him to drink. Offer water several times during each stop.

• As soon as you get to camp and off-load your horse, fill up his water bucket and get him settled in before moving off to other things. Keep in mind that your horse will be stressed from the drive, being in different surroundings, and around other horses.
  

• While on the trail the cardinal rule to remember is to NEVER PASS UP WATER! Each time you need to stop and allow your horse an opportunity to drink. If you are riding in a group of horses, it is important that all riders understand they must remain close at hand to allow every horse an opportunity to drink. If the first riders water their horses and then move on down the trail, those horses left behind will not want to drink for fear of being left behind. Be courteous and thoughtful; always make sure that all horses drink their fill before leaving the watering source.

Some younger horses that are not used to drinking from trail water sources (creeks, ponds, lakes, rivers) may not initially venture to the water because of their uncertainty. Having a been-there-done-that horse in the group go into or to the water first will show the more timid horse that it is okay. This actually mimics horse herd dynamic behavior as often one horse will drink first before the others follow.

Bring along a tube of electrolyte paste in your saddle bags to use in an emergency while on the trail. The tube I always brought along was often time needed either for my own horse or someone else's horse.


Incorporating the above steps will keep your horse happy and well throughout the trail riding season.

Happy trails!

Sarcoids in Horses

By Darlene M. Cox

When I purchased my appaloosa gelding five years ago, he had a warty-like blemish under his eye. At the pre-purchase exam, my vet told me this was a sarcoid, which is the most highly diagnosed type of benign (non-cancerous) tumor a horse can have. A second sarcoid later appeared on his canthus. Some breeds of horses are more prone to sarcoids, and of course, appaloosa was amongst that list. My vet advised me to keep an eye on it and that we wouldn’t need to do anything to it unless it started to grow.

I researched the equine sarcoid and learned that while the cause is not necessarily known, although it is suspected to be a papillomavirus most likely akin to bovines, it can be a very tenacious tumor to get rid of. There are four types of sarcoid: flat (occult) that looks like a flat, scaley lesion; verrucous (warty), appearing like a raised wart; fibrablastic, appearing as an easily irritated mass, subjected to bleeding; and a mixed form, one with two or more of the four types. The flat and sometimes verrucous types of sarcoid may not grow bigger or evolve into the fibroblastic type; they may remain statis or may even regress. The fibroblastic type, however, is the most aggressive type, and the one less likely to respond well to treatment. Skin that has received some type of trauma (cuts, injuries, incisions) may be prime sites for the formation of sarcoids. Many geldings present with sarcoids on their scrotal sac after having been gelded. The prime areas for sarcoids to appear are anywhere on the head, on the belly, or legs.

Since my gelding’s sarcoid was increasing in size, I decided it was time to investigate the types of treatment available for them. I was greatly concerned that even with treatment the sarcoid may come back. Treatment options range from surgical removal, cryotherapy, and immunotherapy. I found all of these options very pricey and equated through research that they may have to be repeated several times before the sarcoid was completely removed.

Luckily, my research and digging around led me to a product called Xxterra, which is an all natural, herbal remedy for equine sarcoids. I phoned the Colorado-based veterinarian who developed the product and discussed this treatment option with him. I purchased a jar of the Xxterra ($110) and began applying it over the sarcoid for five days straight. After the five days, I applied it every other day for a total of 10 treatments. After the fourth day, you could see the sarcoid and surrounding skin react to the topical dressing. After the 6th treatment, the skin was beginning to slough away and was hard and dry to the touch. After the 10 treatments, the old skin had completely sloughed off, but I could still see the ‘base’ of the sarcoid.

I bought a second jar of the compound and applied it as I did the first. At the end of this treatment session, the sarcoid was completely gone.

After the treatments had ended, I placed another call to the vet in Colorado and discussed the treatment plan.. I provided him with some positive feedback that I felt the application process should be modified to discontinuing the applications until the old, dead skin sloughed off, and treatments resumed with the product being placed on the base of the sarcoid after the first sloughing period ended. Doing it this way would possibly require less usage of the product and a reduction in expense.

While I don’t know if my treatment recommendation, why appreciated by the vet, was actually placed on the jar (there is a loss of revenue to be realized here, right?), I do know that others to whom I have referred use of this product and who subsequently used my treatment regimen, were able to rid their horses of sarcoids with only one jar of Xxterra.

Regardless, this product and treatment is much less expensive and invasive than the other options available.

Tying-Up: How to Identify, Manage, and Prevent this Condition in your Horse

By: Darlene M. Cox

darlc5@aol.com

Now that warm weather has returned, we are all chomping at the bit to get our horses back into shape and ready to take on the many trail rides of the season. In our eagerness to return to the trails, we may skip a step or two in the conditioning process for our horses or perhaps speed up the process, working them a little longer and harder than what may be prudent.

Overworked horses may experience a condition called "tying up", which is also known by a host of other names, such as: azoturia, rhabdomyolysis, exertional myopathy, and Monday morning sickness. While the science of this condition is not fully understood, it basically boils down to the horse having an all-over-the-body muscle cramp caused by toxins that build up in the muscles.

Exercise is the predisposing factor to the onset of tying-up and muscle degeneration resultant from high levels of lactic acid and low oxygen in the muscle tissues. Feeding a high-carbohydrate diet during training down times (i.e., feeding the same amount to your horse at leisure as when working) will put your horse at risk of tying up. There are other mitigating factors that may figure into susceptibility, and these include: electrolyte balance, vitamins, and stress levels.

Most occurrences of tying up are fairly mild, but sometimes the condition can lead to severe kidney problems or death. It is important that veterinary intervention be obtained immediately to avoid resultant muscle/kidney damage. It is important that you be able to recognize the signs of tying-up, which may present similar to those of colic with the exception that tying-up will always occur after a horse has been worked.

The most common signs of your horse tying-up are:

• Notable discomfort - flared nostrils, anxiousness, pawing ground, sweating, pale gums
• Short-strides/muscle stiffness, particularly in the hind quarters
• Bunching up/cramping up of muscles across the croup and hindquarters
• Elevated pulse/respiration
• Dark colored urine, or straining to urinate several times

What you should do if you believe your horse is tying-up:

• Call your veterinarian immediately and provide him with a synopsis of vital signs: pulse, respiration, etc. Describe to him what your horse is experiencing.
• Blanket your horse to prevent chills, which will exacerbate the muscle cramping
• Offer your horse water and encourage him to drink. Water will flush his kidneys of the toxins built up in his muscles.

What you should not do if you suspect your horse of tying-up:

• Do not move your horse, as any movement will further damage his muscles
• Do not allow your horse to lie down
• Do not administer any pain or other meds to your horse without veterinarian approval

What to do to prevent your horse from tying-up:

• Feed a low carbohydrate/high fat diet
• When not working your horse adjust the amount of grain fed.
• Warm-up your horse before exercise, and then cool him down afterwards. 10-15 minutes of walking before and after should adequately warm-up/cool down your horse.
• Do not over-exercise your horse.

Responsible horse ownership dictates that we are ever vigilant and knowledgeable about what conditions may afflict our horses. Recognizing the signs above and knowing how to react will potentially save the life of your horse.

Happy trails!

Recognizing the Signs of Laminitis

By: Darlene M. Cox

darlc5@aol.com

Laminitis is most likely the disease for which veterinarian treatment is most often sought by horse owners of every ilk and discipline. While laminitis is a very painful disease that affects a horse's feet, the exact cause for it may lie in another part of the horse's body or it can be a result of stress. Laminitis is believed by some to only affect the front feet; however, as in the case of Barbaro (TB), winner of the 2006 Kentucky Derby, it compromised his hind feet and ultimately led to the decision of his euthanization. Another notable great who had succumbed to laminitis was Secretariat. Laminitis occurs when blood flow is disrupted to the laminae in the foot, which secures the coffin bone to the hoof wall. The laminae within the hoof becomes inflamed and swollen putting pressure on the coffin bone, shifting it downward, or rotating it, toward the sole of the foot. While it is not completely understood how the damage to the laminae occurs, a number of preceptors have been identified in setting the stage for laminitis. The most prevalent of these is poor digestion, which enables toxins to form and enter the horses's bloodstream. Falling within the poor digestion category are horses that have engorged themselves with grain or lush green grass, which puts their digestive systems in a quandary. Post-partum mares that have retained a portion of placenta will have increased blood toxins that could trigger an acute laminitis episodic event. Diseases such as Cushings or hypothyrodism are two medical conditions that initiate the onset of laminitis. Corticosteroid therapies may generate the development of it, as well. Hoof impact stresses on hard surfaces may spark-off an attack of laminitis. Barbaro was felled by laminitis due to the stress his near-hind foot bore while his badly broken off-side leg was placed in a cast. There are two stages of laminitis: acute and chronic. Recognizing the signs of laminitis and immediately contacting your veterinarian will greatly increase your chances of your horse healing and/or surviving his bout with laminitis. An acute stage is the sudden onset of laminitis. Signs of acute laminitis include the following:

• Lameness in front and/or hind legs. Particularly noticeable when your horse turns in a circle.
• Heat in the hoof
• Increased digital pulse in the feet. (You can find the digital pulse by palpating the inside or outside of the leg toward the back of the mid-pastern or fetlock.) A strong pulse will be indicative of laminitis. If you are unsure what you are feeling for, I suggest you 'practice' finding the digital pulse on a healthy horse. While such a pulse will be very slight, you will know where and how to find it if your horse has a laminitic episode.
• Hesitant walking or the appearance of "walking on eggshells".
• Standing position with front feet stretched out and hind feet well under the horse bearing most of the weight.

Chronic laminitis occurs in a horse that has had previous acute onsets of the disease. Signs of chronic laminitis may include:

• Dished hooves (caused by uneven hoof growth)
• Bruised soles
• Rings in the hoof wall
• Dropped soles/flat feet
• Wide white line (seedy toe)
• Blood pockets and/or abscesses (usually seen with seedy toe)

If you believe your horse has laminitis, phone your veterinarian immediately. Limit the movement of your horse to prevent further damage or rotation of the coffin bone. Pain management will be the first treatment administered, as laminitis is very painful. Additional treatments may include the use of anti-toxin medications, meds that will increase blood circulation, and x-rays to evaluate the extent of rotation. Convalescence and healing will take weeks, if not months; however, if you obtained medical intervention quickly, it is very likely that your horse will be able to be ridden again. Much depends upon the degree of rotation, if any. Any marked rotation of the coffin bone, as evidenced by x-ray, will require a convalescent period upwards from 8 months, which is the amount of time required for the damaged areas to grow out. If there was no rotation, your horse may be able to be ridden after two months of rest and healing. Prevention of laminitis, whenever possible, is the best cure. Properly house your grain in an area that is not accessible to your horse. Do not turn your horse out on a lush green pasture. If your horse is overweight, establish an exercise regime for weight loss. Implement nutrient supplements into your feeding plan to enhance digestibility of foods; proper and timely hoof trimming providing a well-balanced foot will offset chances of any mechanical stress triggers; inspect the placenta (after birth) of your mare, calling your vet if any pieces appear missing. Quick action on your part will increase the chances of your horse returning to a productive life. As always, stay vigilant and observant of your horse's behaviors and actions, as these will be your first clues to an impending problem.

Happy trails!