Saddle Diagram

Ever been lost when it comes to saddle terms? Cowboys and cowgirls ain't nothing but confident ain't you can't be confident if you don't know what you are talking about.

We can help you know your stuff.
Take a look at our easy saddle parts breakdown.

Checking the Fit of your Saddle

Goal of Fit: Bar Contact to the Horse’s Back

The bars protect the spine and distribute pressure from the rider’s weight evenly across the horse’s back. Larger riders and performance saddles need longer bars to give more contact area to distribute pressure.

Checking the Fit of your Saddle

The tree has two main factors that determine the fit; gullet width and bar angle. The combination of the two factors makes for slight variations in the saddle industry. There are not any standards or definitions of specific tree sizes, but each saddle builder provides a description to give an idea of the size of horse the tree should fit.

Gullet Width or sometimes referred to as bar spread is the measurement 2 inches below the narrowest part of the gullet, even with the side conchos. This is the most common factor because we can measure it more easily. When measuring, make sure you’re underneath the bars, not in front of the saddle.

A narrow gullet width will keep the saddle perched higher. A wider spread will drop further down on the horse’s back.

Bar Angle is not often measured but the angle needs to be as close to the angle of the horse’s back as possible.

A narrow or tight angle will make contact at the bottom of the bars, not the top. A wide angle will make contact at the top of the bars, not the bottom.

Approximate degrees (+/- 3 degrees):
86 degrees - Normal/Narrow Angle
90 degrees - Wide Angle
94 degrees – Extra Wide Angle

Other Factors

Bar Flare: The bars will flare to some degree in the front and back of the saddle. The front will flare away from the horse to allow for shoulder movement. The back may flare to keep the bars from digging into the croup.

Bar Slope or Rock: The curve of the horse’s topline should be as close to the shape of the bars as possible.

Bridging: When the bars make contact in the front and back of the saddle, but not in the middle. It causes what looks like a bridge across the dip in the back. The weight of the rider is carried only at the ends of the bars causing a lot of pressure that can result in white hairs and sores.

Rock: when the bars bend more than the horse needs. This is the opposite of bridging and less common. The saddle may tip forward, though that could also be from a saddle that is too wide in the front. Rock is found on horses with a flat toppling.

Tree Sizes

Semi-QH: Semi Quarter Horse can be referred to as Medium, Regular, or QH bars. This tree size has a higher pitch or angle to the bars. It’s for the horse with a more defined wither. (1/2 Arab, Appendix, Thoroughbred, etc).

Full-QH: Full Quarter Horse or FQHB can be referred to as Wide (usually 7” gullet). The angle is flatter compared to the Semi-QH tree. This is for horses with a broad shoulder. They’re considered mutton withered or a less pronounced wither. (Quarter Horse, Paint, etc)

Arabian: Have a narrow front (usually 6.5" – 6.75" gullet) similar to the Semi-QH bar but the back of the saddle has a flatter pitch angle. So the saddle goes from a little narrow in the front to flatter or wider in the back. Can sometimes fit non-Arabian horses.

Gaited: The gaited tree has a higher gullet to accommodate the higher withered horses. They usually have a wider or flared front to allow for shoulder movement. The tree narrows toward the back where the bars have more pitch. The gaited saddles usually have more rock to the bars. (Tennessee Walker, Fox Trotter, etc)

Haflinger: Short backed, mutton withered – these trees have a flatter pitch to the bar angle and very little rock. Usually a 7.5" gullet, they’re often used on other large horses needing an extra wide tree.

Draft: Usually an 8" gullet to fit on large draft horses.

Flex Tree Frequent Questions

1. Can flexible trees warp or cave in?
We don’t know where this myth came from, but quite frankly, it’s preposterous. Flex trees are relatively new to the equine industry (in comparison with the age old wooden tree), and we suppose that if someone only heard the term “flexible tree” without knowing what it is, this myth would be easily spawned.

Many people hear the term and assume that a flex tree is bendable like a piece of plastic or rubber. In reality, flex trees only “flex” about a centimeter in either direction, and only under pounds of pressure. You would probably find it hard to even see a flex tree “flexing.”

This centimeter of movement, however, is what makes the flex tree more comfortable for the horse and allows the saddle to conform better to his movement. We’re not going to recommend flex trees for roping or ranch work, but we’re willing to say that under trail and pleasure conditions, there’s no way a flex tree is going to warp or cave in.

2. Do the neoprene bars cause the saddle to flatten out on the horse?
No. Flexible bars made out of neoprene are made out of very heavy neoprene; think about the rubber sole of a work boot. The bars will not flatten out on your horse because they are connected to a ground seat, which forces the saddle to hold its shape.

3. Will the flexible bars help the saddle to fit better?
Yes and no. It depends on how good of a fit you have, to begin with. If you have a bad fit, to begin with, the flexible bars may make the fit tolerable, but by no means comfortable for the horse. If you have a good fit, to begin with, the flexibility will allow the horse to work with the saddle, giving him more freedom of movement in the shoulders.

4. The flex trees above are made differently. Is one better than the other?
If you want the highest quality, go with the flex trees that incorporate a wooden cantle and swell with neoprene bars. You get the benefits of strength and durability of a traditional wood tree with the new flexible technology. We don't see these saddles wearing out very easily.

Safe Practices for Young Riders

Photo by: Flickr User matlock-photo

Ask any horse person when their love for horses began and their response will most likely be “when I was a child.” There is some type of infinite fascination held by children for the beauty and majesty of horses.  Many kids are lucky to advance beyond riding their magnificent horse through their day dreams and have the personal opportunity to interact with or own a horse.

While there isn’t any one breed of horse better than another when choosing a horse for your child, it is best to find a “been there, done that” horse that has a laid back disposition and a quiet and forgiving demeanor. Gender may play more of a role than breed. Mares may be moody and stallions too rowdy, but geldings are generally more even-keeled and could be the better selection.

As parents, it is our responsibility to keep our kids safe when they handle and ride their horses. Implementing safe practices and making sure your child understands them and uses them are important not only for their safety, but also our peace of mine.

• Helmets save lives! Every child should wear a helmet every time they are around their horse, in or out of the saddle. Boots should always be worn when handling horses.
• Structured care and riding lessons are important, whether they are done in a formal setting from a professional instructor or provided by a family member on the family farm. Lessons will build confidence and ability, helping your child develop balance and a strong seat in the saddle. Hands on learning is important, but always under adult supervision. Younger children should never interact with horses without an adult being present. 
• Teach your child about horse dynamics: fight or flight reactions, how they communicate with other horses, pecking orders in the herd, etc. This will provide awareness for your child whenever they are around horses. Instruct them to always be on alert to what might spook their horse: dogs, loud traffic or farm machinery, the wind blowing things around, etc. 
• Safety on the ground. It is very important that children understand how to approach a horse, and how not to! Always approach horses from an angle off the shoulder or in front of the hip from behind. Never approach directly in front of their head or from straight behind. Always speak to the horse as you approach. Never approach quietly. 

Just as important is teaching your child where to stand when near a horse to prevent foot injuries from being stepped on or from being knocked down if a horse whirls around. The safest place to stand is just off the shoulder. Instruct them to always have a hand on the horse. This will let the horse know they are there and will also alert your child if the horse is planning to make a move or is tensing up.

• Never let a child crawl/walk under the horse’s belly or under his neck. This may spook the horse and the child may be knocked to the ground and trampled. 
• Children should never pick up the horse’s feet to clean them. This should always be done by an adult. 

Safety should always be first and foremost when our kids are around horses. Lead by example and pass on the knowledge you have to your children.

By: Darlene M. Cox

Don't Hang Up Your Spurs!

Photo: www.theguardian.com

It's rare for us to go a week without talking to a customer who is recovering from a horse related injury. If you're in the same boat, you're not alone. Regardless of your riding acumen or your knowledge of horses, a day may come when you are involved in a horse-related accident. Hopefully, any injury sustained will be minor, leaving psyche unblemished and confidence unscathed.

But what can be done when your confidence has been totally shaken, leaving you anxious, or even fearful, of interacting with your horse? Experiencing fear and anxiety after an accident is understandable. Rebuilding your confidence is possible, so don’t hang up those spurs just yet!

The key is to go slowly and take your time; the journey of rebuilding your confidence begins by going back to basics. Grooming provides the most intimate one-on-one time you can spend with your horse. Your horse will enjoy the pampering and his relaxed state will also flow into you and begin to winnow away at your anxieties and fear. Daily sessions are best, as you will be touching your horse every day. Talk to him while you are grooming. Share with him what you are feeling. He won’t understand the words, but he will understand the language of your touch. You will see improvement with each passing day.

After you have become confident in your daily contact with your horse through your grooming sessions, another element can be added to regain further confidence. Begin working through basic groundwork steps. Re-visiting these steps reasserts your leadership ability with your horse and will do a world of wonder for your confidence. Leading, stopping, backing up, head lowering, bending, and stepping under are the basic groundwork steps to work on. As your horse responds, you will discover you are ready to try riding once again.

Choose a day you would like to once again mount your horse, and continue your basic groundwork sessions, but do so with your horse fully tacked. The site and sound of your horse in full riding regalia will allow you time to get comfortable with the upcoming date. Once that day arrives and after you have gone through the basics yet again, end the session by simply mounting and sitting on your horse for a few minutes. If you would be more comfortable, have someone assist you by holding your horse. If you are ready to ask your horse to move forward, ask him to walk. Once you are comfortable with the walk, you can ask for the trot and canter, but only take these steps as you are ready for them. There is nothing wrong with remaining at a walk until you know you are ready to pick up the pace.

After your riding session has been completed, unsaddle your horse and end the day with a relaxing and healing grooming session.

It takes time to regain your confidence after an accident, and time is something we all have. What is most important is that you salvage the relationship you have with your horse, as it is the power of this special relationship that heals you!

What are your tips for getting back in the saddle? Leave them in the comments and we might use them on our Facebook page.

By: Darlene M. Cox

Establishing Trust Between Horse and Rider

Photo via Flickr

There is a breathtaking video floating around the internet of a young lady riding bareback and bridleless on her beautiful horse, wowing those in the arena with their wonderful display of athleticism and skills. What immediately struck my mind was the degree of trust she had to establish with her horse in order to train him to do all she asked with nothing more than cues given from her legs and seat.

Natural Horsemanship training is based on winning a horse’s trust, rather than forcing him to do your will. Training with trust makes your horse “want” to please you by doing what you ask.

But how do we get there? How can we build that kind of trust?

Just as trust with those whom we form relationships is important to humans, it is equally important in the relationships our horses have with us. By nature, horses are “fight or flight” minded.

They know two things: 1) there is safety in numbers, and 2) humans are predators.

It is our responsibility to show we need not be feared and that we can be entrusted as a leader. Your horse will interpret and compare everything you do in the context of herd behaviors.

Have you ever seen a horse respond well for a friend, but when you rode him he tried you? Rather than being stubborn as most folks would try to ascertain, he was simply telling you he was unsure of your leadership. Trust is not something that will be attained in a short amount of time; rather, it is built slowly and must be maintained daily.

Your horse will look to you for leadership, just as they look for the same within their herd.  When a horse trusts you, he knows you’ve got his back and that there is safety under your leadership; therefore there is no need for fear.  But he judges your ability to lead every time you are with him, because your lack of leadership may, in the herd, cost him his life.

We must be consistent in how we reinforce positive behaviors and correct bad behaviors. Again, we are emulating reactions in herd life. Our horses will always test our leadership to see if they can shift us from our course of action, which is a sign of weakness in a leader.

Be quick to praise and equally as quick to correct, and do it every time.  Trust can be lost if we lose sight on how our horse interprets our actions.

Begin to establish trust from the ground. If your horse doesn’t trust you on the ground, he is not going to trust you when you’re riding him.  Grooming is a bonding moment as it mirrors herd mechanics when horses groom each other.

If your horse approaches you unasked in the paddock, make him back up a couple of steps. He wasn’t invited to approach you. Once he stands for a little bit, invite him to walk up to you.

While on the trail and a “boogie” is encountered, stay cool in the saddle and urge your horse forward with consistency. Okay, my human is cool with this, so it must be safe. If you are tense in the saddle, it will transfer to your horse.

Round penning or longeing your horse also builds trust because you are in control of when, how, and where he moves, which again mimics natural herd dynamics.

Continually focusing on the bond shared with your horse and maintaining your position of leadership will strengthen your partnership and performance whether on the trail or along the rail.

By: Darlene M. Cox

The Challenges and Rewards of Owning a Draft Horse

Photo via Flickr

For as long as I can remember, I have loved horses. My love for them was inherited and began when listening to my grandmother speak of “Old Denny” a draft plow horse her father owned and used on their farm. She always spoke fondly of him as she told how she and her siblings would all pile onto Denny’s massive back and ride him while her father plowed the fields. The roles of the draft breeds from my grandmother’s time was that of work horses, whether they pulled plows, lumber skidders, or fire wagons for city fire departments.

Draft, or heavy breed, horses are known for their good temperaments, gentle nature, level headedness, and unflappability. There are many draft horse breeds (Clydesdale, Belgian, Percheron, etc.) with horses weighing at or over a ton, and several draft pony breeds (Haflinger,  Fjord, Gypsy Vanner, etc.), shorter in stature but with a draft build.

Popularity for draft breeds continues today, with some folks moving away from saddle horses and investing in these gentle giants, who can still be used to work farm land, pull wagons, and trail ride. Some folks have become homesteaders and enjoy the tranquility of working with draft horses to mow or plow their fields. They kindle a different kind of partnership with their horses than those maintained for pleasure riding.

There are challenges when moving from owning pleasure horses to maintaining draft horses, with the most obvious being increased expense for their maintenance and upkeep.

Surprisingly, you will not see a huge increase in your feed bill, as draft horses will only eat a little more than saddle horses and not double the amount that you might think.

You may see an increase in foot care as drafts require hoof maintenance like all other horse breeds. Not all farriers will work with draft breeds, and those who do may charge more for their services and may employ stocks to get the job done.

Veterinarian expenses will not increase, as draft horses require the same vaccine doses as saddle horses.

You will need to invest in larger, draft-sized tack and equipment to properly fit your big boy. Halters, bridles, saddles, blankets, etc., can be found in some local horse tack stores and can be ordered online through many horse supply houses.

Horse-powered farm equipment may need to be purchased if you plan to work your land with your horse.

You may need to purchase a larger and wider trailer to transport your draft, which may mean selling your slant load trailer for one with straight load capacity. Stalling accommodations need to be considered because a typical 10x12 stall will not work well for a draft horse.

The biggest challenge facing those new to draft horse ownership is learning how to “drive” a horse and wagon. There are many details involved in successfully harnessing a horse and hitching him to the wagon.

There are always solutions to challenges. As with any new horse endeavor, always seek out those who have great experience in handling drafts. Many states have Amish communities from which you may employ the help of a friendly Amish man to show you the ropes of working with your draft horse. Many rural communities have folks who participate in plow days and draft pulls. These experienced horsemen may also be able to instruct you in the nuances of draft ownership and handling.

Some horse auctions, particularly those in draft horse areas, will have wagons, farm equipment, tack, and other items specifically needed for your draft horse. Some saddle makers have draft sized English and western saddles, as well as bridles, halters, etc. for your big horse.

Just as with any other breed, your draft horse is surely to provide you with many years of enjoyment and quickly become a member of your family.

By: Darlene M. Cox

Bridling: How to Achieve this Simple Task

By: Darlene M. Cox

darlc5@aol.com

Throughout my many years of being in and among various horsemen, I have noticed how some riders will make the simple task of bridling into a complex and, often times, aggravating experience for both horse and rider, with the end result being a hanked-off rider and a horse with banged-up teeth after having a bit forced into his mouth. Each time I've seen this happen, I've told myself it doesn't have to be this way. Teaching a horse to drop its head and willingly accept a bit and the entire bridling experience is as simple as allotting some training time prior to heading out on the trail. Bridling should be done with fluid movement and be a steady and smooth process. The mouth and head of a horse are very sensitive. Many horses will adversely react to roughness or an overly invasive and timely production of getting the bridle set. Following are some training tips that I have utilized in training my horses to be bridled:

• The first step is to teach your horse to drop his head. I have utilized one of two methods to do this. The first is to place my hand on his poll (area just behind his ears and top of his neck) and apply gentle pressure. Applying too much pressure will be met with resistance and your horse trying to raise his head up. Gentle pressure will induce him to drop his head.
  Initially, when he drops his head release the pressure and reward him with a pat. Continue with gentle pressure at the poll until he stands with his head dropped.
  The second method I have used to affect the lowering of his head is to apply pressure to his forehead with my finger. Follow the same steps until you get the end of result of his standing with head dropped.
  
• After your horse drops his head have your bridle ready, holding the poll straps with one hand and the bit with other, with the reins draped over (not wrapped) your forearm. Along with the bit have a horse treat in hand. Standing to the side of your horse's head, hold the bridle in form (poll portion up and bit approaching mouth). Do not allow your horse to have the treat unless he takes the bit. He will come to associate accepting the bit with receiving a treat.
  
• Gently set the bit along the bars behind your horse's teeth before you move the poll portion of the bridle upward. Once the bit is comfortably positioned, move on to correctly place the poll straps behind the ears and buckle the chin strap loosely.
  
• Adjust/check the curb strap/chain, if you ride with one. You should be able to insert two fingers between the strap/chain and chin.

The process for removing the bridle is just as important as installing it.

• Remove the reins from around the horse's neck and drape (not wrap) them over your forearm.
• Ask your horse to once again drop his head by implementing one of the above methods.
• Standing by the side of your horse's head, undo the chin strap. Place one hand on the poll straps and position the other on the bit. Remove the poll straps over the ears and proceed using a downward angle that matches the pitch of your horse's face. Once your hand reaches just below the eyes, gently remove the bit, making sure you don't rattle the metal against your horse's teeth.

Perfecting the art of bridling before you ride will make the experience much more pleasant for you and your horse. Practice bridling and unbridling any time you are grooming or working with your horse. The time you take to teach your horse to drop his head and become comfortable with bridling will make the process go much smoother when you are ready to hit the trails.

Happy trails!