My Horse Has a Flat: What to Do if Your Horse Throws a Shoe on the Trail

The equivalent in the horse world of having to “change a flat tire in the middle of the night in the rain” is having to care for your horse that throws a shoe in the middle of a forest. Just as you would have a jack, tire iron, and spare tire available for your car emergency, you also need to have necessary tools and supplies available to you to fix your “horse flat”. These items should be carried in your saddle bags to have available on the trail. They aren’t going to do you much good if you are 10 miles deep in the forest and they are securely tucked away in your trailer at camp. Most horse folk who trail ride carry a hoof pick with them; however, it is equally important to carry a shoe puller/nipper, as well as a boot, baby diapers, and duct tape.

Many things can cause a loose or thrown shoe while riding the trails. Deep mud can be problematic as well as underbrush or simply your horse taking a miss-step. Once you hear the tell-tale sound of a loose shoe, immediately stop and assess the problem. If the shoe is merely loose, but the overall integrity of the shoe set is still good (i.e., not hanging sideways or dangling), you can continue riding but keeping a constant watch on the shoe if its integrity deteriorates.

If the shoe has been partially pulled and the shoe is dangling by what few nails remain intact, you must remove the shoe completely from the hoof. Move your horse to as level ground as possible. Ask a friend to assist by standing at your horse’s head. Use the shoe puller/nipper to nip the heads off the remaining nails and then use the puller/nipper, starting nearest the heel, to remove the shoe by pulling inward toward the sole of the foot. Never pull outward to the outside of the hoof as you risk damaging the hoof wall. Be careful and aware that your horse’s foot may be injured or sore and he may be reactive if a tender place is touched. Be sure to remove any remaining nails that may be in the hoof.

Once the shoe has been removed, you can place the foot in a pre-fitted boot (if you have one) or you can pad the hoof with baby diapers and then wrap it securely with duct tape. This will protect your horse’s foot from further injury if it was hurt when the shoe came off, as well as make walking over rocky terrain more comfortable.

At this point, your riding for the day is pretty much over and a return to camp is best. If your horse does not appear lame and you have the foot securely wrapped, you can ride your horse back to camp; however, if there is any indication of lameness and soreness, it is best that you lead him back to camp.

Once back in camp, you can contact a farrier and/or veterinarian to tend to your horse.

Happy trails!

By: Darlene M. Cox (darlc5@aol.com)

Bidding Adieu to Poo – Composting Horse Manure

If you have horses, you most certainly have an abundance of manure. Most horse folk probably look at dealing with this odorous offal as the price one must pay when having horses. The truth is, however, horse manure can be a beneficial resource for your farm and could possibly put some greenbacks in your hand as well.

There are many benefits to composting horse manure. The health of your horses can be positively impacted because flies and parasites are killed off by the high temperatures in the compost pile. Your pasture benefits as well because weed seeds cannot survive through the high temps as well.

Removing manure from your pastures and adding to your compost will provide more grazing capacity. Horses avoid grazing near manure piles (can’t say that I blame them); however, they don’t seem to mind the presence of composted manure when lightly spread over the pasture to encourage good grass growth by supplying rich nutrients to the soil.

The easiest way to compost is to build two composting bins which can be done easily and inexpensively, to store your compost. All that is required are landscape boards and lag screws to build a three-sided bin. Once the bin is full, it takes about two months for the composting process to be completed. It may be beneficial to build two bins where you can have a fresh compost bin and a completed bin.

When establishing your compost pile, you want to select an elevated spot that is not located near a water source. A well-managed compost pile will break down the manure quickly and will reduce the bulk that you would otherwise have on hand without composting. Odors are also diminished by composting, simply due to the natural process of the manure breaking down. It is important to try to keep foreign matter out of your compost pile. Some stall bedding (straw) composts quicker than others (sawdust).

The success of your compost pile relies on two important things: Heat and air movement. Optimal heating levels are achieved by having a pile that is at least three feet high. Heat is obtained from decomposition and internal combustion as the manure breaks down. Air movement is easily achieved by using your tractor to turn the pile and moving the outside compost to the inside of the pile. Moving the pile allows air to reach all areas and provides the fuel for combustion. If you don’t have a tractor, you can insert several PVC pipes, with holes drilled through them, down through the pile to provide air flow.

The temperature of your compost pile will vary through composting cycle. The range is generally between (100 degrees to 120 degrees on the lower end and rising to around 130 – 150 degrees to effectively kill off fly and parasite eggs. The temperature of the pile will drop when composting is nearing completion.

Water is also an important component for your pile; however, you don’t want too much of it. Too much water will limit the amount of air flow and will cause odors. Covering your pile may be necessary during any wet periods. You also don’t want your pile to be too dry. Compost should have about as much moisture as you might find in peat moss; somewhat damp, but not dripping.

Composted horse manure is a marketable commodity and can easily be sold to landscapers, plant nurseries, topsoil companies, or to your neighbors who want to use it to enrich their gardens. Contact some of these businesses to see if they may be interested in buying your compost. The money you make from it can then be put back into your horse operation. You will find that the work involved in maintaining your compost pile is minimal compared to the benefits you receive from it.

Happy trails!

By: Darlene M. Cox (darlc5@aol.com)

As the Worm Turns: Managing Parasite Burdens in Your Horse

Most who own horses are aware that horses play host to a varying degree of parasite burdens. Life for the parasite living inside your horse is pretty comfy. Its needs are being met as the horse provides the amenities of warmth and fine dining, which allow the parasite to grow and develop, while causing problems for your horse. The life of a parasite is cyclical and its existence relies on its ability to perpetuate its life cycle by living and reproducing in the horse, with eggs being expelled outside in dung, and reinfesting the horse again as the horse grazes.

While this cycle cannot be stopped, it can at least be slowed down and effectively controlled with a two-prong approach of smart farm management practices and fecal egg count monitoring, with use of deworming agents when parasite load numbers require intervention. Many horse owners maintain a regular de-worming program by administering deworming agents on a six-to-eight-week schedule or via a daily feed-through supplement; however, it has recently been suggested that parasites are becoming resistant to these medications, and it may be best to use them only when parasite numbers are high.

Fecal egg count monitoring for each horse will allow you to tailor treatment for each individual horse. Not every horse will carry the same parasite load, so it only stands to reason that treatment regimens should be administered based upon the amount of infestation maintained by each horse. You would not want to treat a horse with a low count as you would one with a high count. Treatment should not be considered a "one treatment program fits all" regimen.

Probably the most important weapon, and generally the one easily overlooked, in parasite management is using wise farm management practices. The beginning life cycle of parasites begins outside the horse, when egg infested dung lies on the ground and horses graze near the dung ingesting the parasite once again. Parasite numbers on the ground can be greatly reduced by removing dung from the pasture or by breaking the piles up and exposing the inside of the pile to sunlight. For larger pastures, mowing or dragging the will break these piles up. If you arm yourself with a wheelbarrow, utility trailer, and a stall cleaning fork, you can pick up dung piles in smaller pastures.

While it may be difficult for many seasoned horse owners to back away from using the repetitive deworming program, you may want to chat with your veterinarian about fecal egg count/parasite load based treatment, just to see if this new regimen may be best for your horse.

Happy trails!

By: Darlene M. Cox (darlc5@aol.com)

Horse Behavior: Feeding Your Horses According to Pecking Order

Have you ever experienced the wild melee of an equine feeding frenzy when you feed pastured horses? If you have, the reason behind this explosive and dangerous fury could solely reside with the failure of feeding the horses according to pecking order ranking.

As herd animals, horses live within an established and innate hierarchical system upon which an "alpha", or dominant, horse reigns over those of limited ranking and stature. As simply as the alphabet goes from A to Z and numbers from 0 to 10, so goes the ranking of the horses in your herd, with each horse holding a higher placement above those of subordinate positions.

Your understanding of herd ranking is very important when it comes to feeding your horses in an open pasture. When feeding grain, use buckets that can be placed within a circle and separated by no fewer than two horse lengths apart. Well-spaced buckets will prevent those horses with a higher ranking to claim or guard multiple buckets. Always place at least one extra bucket of grain to allow for the natural movement of the herd if a higher ranking horse moves a subordinate horse away from a bucket. This will allow the lowest horse in the herd to get his fair share of grain, too. Generally, the rank and file will fall into order for feeding after the alpha horse has begun eating. Always get the alpha horse engaged with its meal first. If you do not use buckets for feeding, place grain on top of a hay flake and place the hay within the same distances as described above.

Always be aware of the horses around you and know what is going on. There may be small skirmishes during feeding time as pecking orders are somewhat fluid with challenges being made as one tries to gain a higher position. Never position yourself within the inside of the herd, always work on the perimeter or outside, which will better avail you with watching the horses in front of you. Don't let a horse rush at you when feeding it in pasture. Remember that you are the true "alpha" of your herd and any rush toward you is a challenge to your authority.

When collecting the buckets after feeding, be watchful of any horses loitering around hoping for "extras". There is a potential risk of injury any time you are around horses free on pasture. Again use the perimeter approach and be aware of what horses are around you.

Happy trails! 

By: Darlene M. Cox, darlc5@aol.com 

Come and Get It: Feeding Your Horse while Trail Riding or Camping

by: Darlene M. Cox (darlc5@aol.com)

Much time and planning goes into getting ready for a trail riding and camping adventure, whether it is a short weekend trip or one that encompasses a week of fun-filled saddle time and relaxation. Of all the important things to pack along for your trip, food ranks right there at the top of the list. Nothing can beat the mouth-watering aromas of a meal being prepared over an open campfire; unless you ask your horse what he might like to eat.

Following are some food-for-thought suggestions as you plan for feeding your horse while trail riding and camping:

· Feed your horse the same brand of grain and/or type of hay he is used to eating at home. Do not opt for a higher protein grain or straight alfalfa hay if your horse is not used to eating such at home.

· Estimate the time that you will be away from home to determine how many feedings of grain that you will need to have on hand. Add at least two feedings to this number just in case your return home is delayed due to some unforeseen reason.

· If possible, pre-measure grain servings and place into individual, large zip lock bags for easy serving while in camp. This will save you time and trouble, particularly when feeding during night time hours. With pre-measured portions, your horse is guaranteed to receive the same amount of grain he would get if at home. Never feed your horse more grain because you equate his working harder and longer with an increased need for more grain. Feeding more grain than your horse is used to eating may cause an unwanted bout of colic, impaction, or tying-up (azoturia).

· When determining the amount of hay you need to take, add one bale to the total to allow for extra portions (always okay to feed more hay) as well as allow for the possibility that any particular bale may have a portion that is not palatable (moldy, dusty, dirty, etc.). Keep your baling string in situ and simply tie up any unused bale portion for the return trip home.

· Morning feedings should be done one to two hours before you saddle up and hit the trail. Think about how you would feel if you had to work out right after eating your breakfast. Allow some time for digestion to begin before saddling up. Give your horse time to eat undisturbed. Don’t couple feeding time with grooming or riding prep.

· After an end of a day’s ride, your horse should be given adequate time to cool down and relax before being fed. Offer cool water, but never feed an overly exerted, hot horse as you risk a colic episode. Wait at least an hour or two before feeding grain/hay.

· If you are riding with a group and your horse is picketed, tied, or stalled next to the horses' of others horses with whom you will be riding, try to orchestrate feeding around the same time. This will eliminate unneeded stress on those horses that have to hungrily stand and mouth-wateringly watch as other horses eat. Position hay bags and feed buckets out of reach from other horses to prevent territorial/food protection behaviors. Canvas feed bags are ideal to use in camping situations as they are easy to fill and strap onto your horse and will keep other horses from nosing around to scavenge extra grain.

A little time and effort in planning meals for your horse while trail riding and camping will make sure he is a happy camper, too!

Happy trails!

Love My Ariat Ropers

When one of our customers in Canada found out that we now carry western apparel, she added a pair of Ariat Heritage Lacer Boots Roper Toe to her saddle order stating that it was finally time to replace the ones she had been wearing. When she received her order, Tracy sent us this picture and we just had to pass it on. Pictured on the left are the Ariat boots that she has worn “every day for the past 20 years”. And on the right…the boots she will enjoy for the next 20. You just can’t replace quality!
By the way, she also said, "wow, can’t believe your prices and quality. Gonna tell everyone." Thanks Tracy!

Travelling with Your Horse: Tips to Encourage Your Horse to Drink Unfamiliar Water

By: Darlene M. Cox (darlc5@aol.com)

Anyone who has traveled longer distances with their horse knows the difficulty you are faced with when trying to get your horse to drink unfamiliar water. Generally, I will take some water from home, stored in two 20-gallon plastic storage containers to offset some of the trepidation my horse will have toward drinking while on the road. However, it is impossible to transport enough water for a week’s worth of camping and riding; therefore, you have to teach your horse that strange water is okay to drink.

There are several different ways to encourage your horse to drink while traveling:

• · Flavor the water with electrolyte powders, Gatorade, or Kool-Aid. Begin this several days in advance at home to get your horse used to drinking the flavored water. While traveling, the flavorings will mask the taste of the strange water and your horse should drink without hesitation.

• · Bring along the watering bucket your horse is accustomed to from home. He has been drinking from it and is very familiar with its smell and shape.

• · Add a little salt to your horse’s grain at each feeding. The salt will trigger thirst and encourage drinking.

• · Fill a syringe with syrup or molasses. A sticky mouth might encourage your horse to drink to get rid of the stickiness.

• · After filling the water bucket, let the water warm up by setting it in the sun. Horses generally do not like to drink ice cold water straight from the tap, and when you add to it that the water is from an unfamiliar source, your horse may be less inclined to drink.

• · Place apple wedges in the water bucket. As your horse mouths the apple wedges, he may also decide he wants to drink some water, too.

• · Keep his water bucket filled and in front of him at all times when you are not riding. After he samples the water several times, he may decide that it is okay to drink.

• · If your horse doesn’t drink much and you are concerned about dehydration, administer a tube of electrolyte paste. This will offset dehydration and encourage him to drink as well.

Generally speaking, horses that are at first a little hesitant to drink from strange watering sources will begin to drink them in short order. Sometimes it may take a little while and some encouragement and tricks on your part to help him over the hump.

Happy trails!